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Here is a direct link to the third page, post # 28.

Thank you for all of that!! that is a major help!!

Being that this is a 5682, according to the service manual this wont have body mount 3 and my number 5 mount should be a little different than a 5687-99.

However, it appears that depending what body you got 6478987 (Steele 30-0501-48) is either considered "thick" or "thin" (in accordance with the parts manual 30.1004). which really doesnt make sense because 6478987 is the same thickness as 6478986 (steele 30-500-48) which are thicker than the "thin" 6478985 (steele 50-0097-48).

Thankfully the only mounts that I removed are the radiator cradle, and the parts manual for that is clearer as which cushion goes where.

I Ordered body mounts for a 55 chevy in polyurethane because Ross claims they could work with some modification. Plus Polyurethane would hold up better environmentally than rubber. Ill measure them and compare them too the dimensions listed on steele rubbers website to see if they would work and what modifications may be needed.

So i got the body mounts in for a 55 chevy. They are all the same thickness... So they will not work. I will have to end up getting the ones from Steele Rubber.

This past weekend I tried out my fixed ultra sonic cleaner and it is working again! got the carb nice and cleaned and back together.

Still no word on the expansion valve...

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Carb looks nice. I wish I had an ultrasonic that I could drop parts in!

-Kevin

This weekend I got some parts received in. I got the U-joints in so I can strip and paint the drive shaft in preparation for that being installed.

and I got the evaporator back... It looks nice but it still has the flare type connections even though the work order I submitted said to change out those connections for the O-ring style. They are going to check with the technician to see why the work order wasnt followed and we will go from there.

Submitted my request to a couple places in regards to getting an expansion valve picked out, but so far no response. I guess that is good considering the connections on the evaporator have not been solidified yet.

This past weekend I didnt get much time to get work done. I finished tapping the back of the grille and I got the drive shaft disassembled and painted. I am going to be all over the place this month so I will wait to start masking the grille for paint.

Finally got someone at original air to give me a call back. According to them they do not have the capability to add O-ring style connections onto the evaporator. They claimed that if I use copper washers in the connections it will seal fine with R134a... I guess I really dont have much choice at this point.

Still no news on what expansion valve I can use. Original Air said they would consult with their technician and give me a call back but still no word.

Okay. So it appears not much out there for expansion valves when it comes from the automotive side of things. However, I opened my search to things like big truck and tractors since they have similar sized systems.

What about this valve:

hy-capacity.com/air-conditioning/expansi ... e-right-angle-externally-equalized/

It is a right angle, but I am having trouble finding this type of valve as a straight through, let along with flare connections

I would say a definite possibility since it specifies R134a but I would also get the copper washers. I don't remember the fitting sizes on the evaporator so you might want to double check them so that with the proper orientation or flow direction it will screw onto the evaporator fittings. No idea if it would be returnable if they don't but if not, at least it is not an arm and leg pricewise.

Assuming that the evaporator fittings work out then if you are going to try and duplicate the Packard line layout with the metal tube on the inner fender with the loop going under the air vent section to supply the valve, the 90 degree part isn't too much an issue. You should be able to rotate it the valve 45 degrees or so to meet the inlet line. That would also work with a straight hose fitting if you decided to go with hose coming off the receiver/drier instead of metal. Not sure about the diameter of the old bulb vs the capillary but you might also need to revise the pocket on the suction side where the sensing capillary goes so it has a tight metal to capillary tube contact in order to sense properly.

The other thing would be the adapter(s) needed to convert the female flare and nut connection on the equalizer tube to the hole for the port on the evaporator suction side ouput fitting. The specs don't say what size or type flare so you might need to have the valve in hand to figure that one out -- and that is assuming it can be done with stock fittings.

Howard, thank you for that information... I am not finding any valve that is larger than that one, nor with larger connections. This may be what I am going to adapt.

So I assume the Capillary tube (which comes out of the top of the valve?) goes into the evaporator where the bulb was initially? and the Equalizer tube connects into the outlet of the evaporator?

There is another port on the inlet of the evaporator. Am I to assume to just block that off since I am not using the modulator valve? Since I plan on using a thermostat system similar to how you set yours up?

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for future reference this is used in Ford/New Holland T5050, T5070, Tl100 and many, many more tractors