Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

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This is an interesting idea. Surprised this is the first time in all my 50 or so years of playing with card I've heard of doing this.

You said that doing this would not be for daily use. What would be wrong with connecting a permanently mounted battery and connecting it through a second start solenoid?

You could have a hidden toggle switch to switch the start signal from the normal 6 volt start solenoid to the solenoid controlling the 12 volt battery. Then switch back to the 6 volt position for the next time you try to start the car. If the car always starts normally you don't use the 12 volt battery at all. It's only there when you really need it. The need for a charging system for the 12 volt battery would not be necessary do to it's limited use. Just top it off with a plug in charger every so often. A good battery will hold it's charge for months if not years.

You can use the 12 volt battery for trying to get the car to run,and it's very simple.Without damage to any part of the electrical system.
Remove the wire that the electrical system uses to charge and power the main circuts.Usually a larger gauge wire that is connected to the starter.(Not the battery cable)Then you install a jump wire from the battery with a resistor or use a 12 volt internaly resisted coil for the ignition circut.Set up a temp start switch for the starting.
This will by pass all of the cars circuts and give the boost you need.If the engine(and it's systems) are in good enough shape,you can probably return to the 6 volt system. This is how I got my 38 to run after a 10 year hibernation.
RT

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Yes but what if you have a car that is sometimes hard starting when hot and you are on a trip without the parts and equipment you are referring too? ie. the wire, the resistor,the temporary starting switch not to mention the 12 volt battery.


What I am proposing would only take flipping a hidden switch one way, starting the car, then flipping the switch back again.

Or you can just buy one of those 6/12 combo batteries. Hook the starter to the 12v side, and the main harness (rest of the car) to the 6v side. Then you have a 6v system with 12v starting. But I am not sure if that battery would work in a positive ground configuration. May have to run it negative ground. But that should not affect anything in the car except the amp meter which would just have to have its terminal connections reversed.

Didn't think of that battery. Also the polarity would not be a problem with a 6/12 battery. Just hook it up positive ground.

Now my reasion for not using the 6/12 battery set up as you suggested. I remember hearing a packard start up on a 12 volt battery with a 6 volt starter motor and, to me, that would be far too embarrassing to do all the time. I would want to push the car out behind a building so no one could see or, more importantly, hear it start.

If you need 12 volts occasionally to start a stubborn car or one that's sat for a long time, that's one thing. But don't loose sight of the fact that if you need 12 volts routinely to start a 6 volt car, you've got some other significant problem, usually a failing battery, undersize cables, bad connections including grounds, or starter motor issues. Routinely using 12 volts on a 6 volt motor isn't the best idea, and there should be no need for it other than the occasional emergency.

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Yes, you are absolutely right. I was only thinking of the occasional emergency. My car has low compression in two or three cylinders and also tends to vapor lock on a hot day in the mountains. I drive my car pretty much every day and also on 500+ mile long trips. Only had starting problems maybe 3 or 4 times in three years. I think from vapor lock. not really sure.

WOW... I walked away from my computer for a few hours and got all these responses. I will try a 12 volt battery just to try to start it and if successful I will return to the 6 volt. The car has sat for a long time. I found a note in the car dated 1997 that apparently had been left asking the car not to be towed. So it has sat for at least that long. I know that problem is not related to this. Thanks for all the suggestions. frank

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The heater fan motor is polarity dependent. It will turn backwards if the polarity is reversed. The starter is a series wound motor (meaning the rotor and stater windings are in series with each other like an old streetcar motor)and will turn the same direction regardless of the polarity applied.

I haven't heard that until now & would think anyone switching polarity either accidentally or on purpose would have noticed or mentioned it. Only thing I ever recall reading about polarity switch problem is ammeter & radio.

Believe the heater motor is series wound also--although it's been awhile since I took one apart.

The 55-6 are not polarity dependent because the same assys both regular and underseat are used for both years.