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The radio and speaker are all a single unit about the size of a lunch box. It's held in place by the shaft nuts under the radio knobs and the single bracket at the bottom that connects it to the edge of the dash.

There should be pics in my blog.

But generally, I'd do it in the following order.

1) Disconnect Battery
2) Remove the two radio knobs
3) Remove the heater control knobs
4) Remove under dash bulb and its holder (it is right in the way, and unprotected, ask me how I know).
5) Remove the lower radio support bracket
6) If you have the optional rear radio fader switch on the dash, remove that from the dash board as it's pretty much hardwired into the radio so needs to come out with it.
7) Remove the radio knob shaft knobs.
8) The radio should now be free, but you'll have to work it down a bit around the Bowden cables. The antenna plugs in on the driver's side of the case, so as soon as you can see it disconnect to avoid damaging it. Also, the radio has an inline tube fuse holder that supplies power. Disconnect the power at that point by separating the fuse holder.
9) Now it's like giving birth, working pushing the cables to the left and right to work the radio between then and straight down. The heater/defroster plenum is right behind it all as well, so it's a tight squeeze. Another reason to remove the under dash light for clearance.

If there are any wire ties/tape/etc bundling the Bowden cables together, you make have to cut those to give you slack.

Installation is the reverse.

NOTE: Since I rewired everything and have had both the dash and radio in and out several times, one thing I have done is omit the bottom screws from the dash cluster. The top two screws and a dedicated aux ground wire between the cluster and the firewall structure provide all the support and grounding needed. I actually find the aux ground wire gave me brighter dash lights over just the OEM mounting screws.

But anyway, what this allows be to do is pull the cluster out at will in less than 3 mins without disconnecting anything. I can pull out the top two screws, and pull the cluster forward and lay it face down on a towel over the steering column. I do this as this gives me a great view behind the dash, the cluster, and also the side of the radio. It just makes dealing with anything being the dash, 10x easier vs being upsidedown under the dash. Now, I have a new harness in, so my wire is soft/flexible enough and I left enough slack to allow that cluster to be moved out easily. Even with the speedo cable still connected. Not sure if a stiff 60-year-old harness would be that forgiving.

The point of this is that I can easily disconnect the antenna and radio power before I try to drop it down. Also makes it easier to see/reach the left side heater controls.

The same can happen on the passenger side if you remove the glovebox.

Gasoline Riddle

Kevin: Here’s some text on the subject of gasoline coming out of the tank filler.

Thermal Expansion of Solids and Liquids | Physics (lumenlearning.com) and
Volumetric Expansion Coefficients Liquids (engineeringtoolbox.com)

Now the specifics that are likely applicable to your case, I’ll use 20 gallons for the size of the fuel tank.
The expansion of gasoline is about 0.00053 per degree F, I use the phrase ‘about’ because that value varies by batch and blend. The calculation would be: Volume change = 20 * 0.00053 * delta temperature (F) . . . the resulting value would be the expansion of the fuel in the tank in gallons.

With a 10 degree change in temperature (of the entire gasoline volume) the expansion is approximately 0.1 gallons. All of this is quite linear, so if your fuel went-up 30 degrees the expansion would be about 0.3 gallons . . . more than a quart!

If the filler neck is 2 inches in diameter the vertical rise in the filler tube would be about 7 inches with a 0.1 gallon change. That too is a linear calculation, so you’re looking at about 21 inches at 0.3 gallons. We will have to deduct the amount of fuel that was used to drive back from the gas station. If the gas station is within 5 miles of home, my bet is the fuel spill is nothing more than the physics of expansion . . . nothing you can do to stop that, so drive the car about 15 miles after you fill-up for the last time in the Fall.

I find this happens every time I come back from the Grand Canyon after stopping for fuel in Flagstaff. We make that trip in November after the ‘summer rush’. At that time of year the average temperature in Flagstaff/GCNP is about 30F, while when I refuel in Phoenix the next day the temperature will be somewhere between 70 – 80F. The car has a 42 gallon tank, so there is a possibility of gaining about 1 gallon from expansion . . . I can see that amount of change in the computed gas mileage.

dp

I find on my '54 that the average fuel nozzle at the gas station doesn't automatically shut off when full. Something I discovered very early on. So When I go to fill up, and usually have an idea of how much fuel it needs and start to listen about a gallon or so shy of what I think it needs. There is a for sure a change in sound once it reaches the top of the tank and it starts to fill the inlet tube. That's when I stop. Otherwise, it quickly fills the filler tube and starts to spill out of the filler unfettered. Which is also usually down the side of the quarter panel.

I've always filled up on the way to somewhere, so I've never filled it all the way up when cold, and then put it way.

But I'd say it was possibly overfilled and then expansion and a little siphon action did the rest.

One other possibility and I just remembered this from skimming my blog recently looking for something else, is that I had a puddle under my car early on when I first got the car running. The culprit was the rubber vent hose between the tank and filler tube was rotten, and it slowly seeped from there after filling the tank. A new, modern, fuel-safe hose resolved the issue. I'm pretty sure the old hose was original, and the new ethanol-laced fuel probably finished it off.

Thanks for the run-down on the radio removal Kev. That will be very helpful for when I find the time to tackle the disassembly.

I had read your blog before I first took my instrument cluster out when I first got the car, and I made sure to leave the lower two bolts unconnected. I've had the cluster out many times since then and it has been so much easier. I do, however, need to add a separate aux ground wire from the cluster to the firewall. That sounds like a great idea.

Regarding the fuel spill issue....it definitely came from the fill spout. When I looked, the cap and soda can were wet, as was the interior of the quarter panel. I just can't fathom why gas would come shooting out the vent hole on the cap for no reason....the car was unmoving and had not been started for weeks. Atmospheric pressure maybe? For sure my tank is overfilled. I can see the gas in the filler neck. You're right, modern fuel pumps don't shut off on this car like they do on others.

The rubber hose for the vent pipe is all brand new. And no ethanol fuel has run in my car since I got it, and all rubber parts in the fuel system have been replaced.

-Kevin

I took a look under the dash to see what's involved in removing the radio and heater controls. I'll have to find some time to get it done. Doesn't look too bad....just really awkward.

Yesterday was a balmy 47 degrees in the morning, so I figured I would give the car some exercise. It had been a few weeks since I had started it. I drove it work and was pretty cold but it was worth it.

One thing I have been experiencing more and more frequently is a non-start "click". I turn the key and just get a click and nothing else. Fully charged battery. I have to try the key a couple of times and then it was will crank and start right up. Usually by the third twist of the key.

Starter issues? Solenoid? Bad cable to the starter (mine is original and not fantastic)?

-Kevin

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If you are getting a "click" then it is most likely the solenoid. Whilst you have the starter off to change that take the opportunity to take the starter apart, lube the bushings, take a peek at the brushes, and undercut the mica on the commutator. Let's see a picture of your starter so we know which type.

Will do Ross. Anything in particular I should know about removing it? Does it just slide out after removing the screw, or does it take more work?

Removal is easy, 2 bolts and 2 wires and just pull it out. It does weigh a good bit, so be careful.

No progress on the Panama over the past month. All of my free time has been going into building a separate shop building on our property. I decided I wanted to learn how to do electrical, with the help of an electrician friend. It's taking forever!

But my wife got me a neon sign for Christmas, to go in the Packard space in the garage. I'm loving it!

-Kevin

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