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No spacers I am aware of. The number identifies it as a 55 senior starter but those would still fit the 56 engine. Was it on the engine which you got the car or something you picked up as a spare. If not originally on the engine, since Delcos were so prevalent back then wonder if someone did a rebuild and might have swapped nose ends from a different brand car or maybe an earlier Packard model.

If the bellhousing was not original to the engine wonder if it could have been originally on a Stude, Nash or Hudson version of the engine. Sometimes special components were made for those engines and possibly one of their models used a different starter

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I am not entirely sure... it is still mostly painted black so I can only assume it was on the engine/manual trans combo when it was put together in the 90s. I have others laying around in the Packard shed so I will see if I can find another one and try it

So I took a measurement on the starter from the mating face of the flange to the end that goes into the bell housing and it is 2.630”. Then I took the corresponding measurement in the bellhousing. Basically from the mounting flange to the back wall where the starter is hitting and that is 2.545”

The casting date on the lower bellhousing is early 55, and the part number on the starter suggests it is a 55 starter as well.

So I have no idea what’s going on here. Does anyone have a spare starter that they can measure to confirm my numbers?

That starter is a snug fit into the bell.
Just make sure that you install it squarely.

not sure if this will help you as my starter is autolite



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does anyone have an information on the orientation of the bushings that go under the radiator support?

My car appears to have the thicker bushing on top so if that is correct, according to Steele's info on their repro bushings, top one at 1/2" thicksteelerubber.com/body-mounting-pad-70-1429-48 would be positioned to have the locating collar down to fit into the hole in the frame. The 3/4 diameter steel spacer would also fit in the bushing cavity and be able to position and keep the lower 5/16 thick bushing properly centeredsteelerubber.com/body-mounting-pad-70-1430-48 below the frame hole.

Don't have info on the length of the steel spacer but typically they are just a bit shorter -- maybe 1/8" or so -- than the height of both pieces of rubber combined so when the bolt is tightened the spacer does not allow the rubber to compress excessively.

This past weekend I got some help (thanks for coming Ryan!) and got more parts put onto the Patrician. I was able to install the Evap box. So I couldn’t fit the expansion valve through the firewall, didn’t even try, so I assembled the box while it hung on the fire wall. Wasn’t to bad. With that installed we were able to install the dash board, and boy does that look nice!


Since the dash board was assembled with the wiring prior the harness was fed through the firewall and we started to hook up some electrical connections. Installed some components on the fire wall like the ignition ballast and headlight dimmer switch. I also wanted to get some linkages installed so I also installed the column. The shift rods are in place, just need to be adjusted. Throttle linkage that attaches to the firewall is installed. The clutch linkage is in place but I misplaced some of the C clips that secured it to the frame rail and mount, so I ordered some new ones with hopes of getting that linkage set up. I got the speedo cable cleaned, greased and installed, got the governor installed, and the O/D cable installed but still need to connect that to the trans. I also swapped the chrome valve covers back onto the Caribbean and put the painted ones on here.

Moving along nicely!

One of the items I wanted to install on the firewall is the O/D relay for the 3 speed trans. It rattles when you shake it. Is that suppose to happen? Or do I have an issue and need to disassemble that?

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Normally relays do not make any noise so possibly there has been a chunk of insulation or phenolic break off and is causing the rattle. One nice thing about those relays is if you need a new one they are reproduced. Expensive but available.

There have been several who have not wanted to spend the money on the repro relay so gutted the old parts out of the can and by using short jumper wires soldered to the points where the outside terminals entered the base and the old relay parts attached, fitted in a modern 40 amp cube type relay for about 10% of the repro cost. Once the cover is back on the base no one is the wiser.

Am curious about the mounting of the expansion valve to your evaporator. Is there an inlet or outlet stamped on the body or an arrow or a screen in one of the ports? Usually the expansion valves of that type when mounted on aftermarket units have the orientation as shown in this illustration from a theory manual I have. If no ID, the descriptions say a screen is on the inlet side. Not sure how important orientation might be with that type valve and the same AC manual the illustration came from does seem to have the valve mount both ways. Maybe it is not very important but the way the external sensing pressure works on the valve maybe something to keep in mind if you have issues.

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Good to know about the relay! I will definately look into using a modern cube relay. Would probably need help wiring that up.

and there is an arrow indicated on the valve body.

did I orient that wrong?

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