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Yes, I know for a fact that QUiteride supplies other vendors just like SteelRubber does. I also know for a fact that they are still advertising a plenum for a 55 Packard even though they cannot make them.
I have not heard from them since June. Have left multiple messages to no avail.
I am planning to sell the 54 plenum that they sent to me by mistake and try to get back some of my money.

Furthermore, if a 19-year-old girl can shape and glue foam rubber and make herself look like a comic book character then surely to hell I can make myself a new heater plenum the same way. I do have the original to copy, its just in bad shape.

I installed my rear window without the stainless in place. But I put a piece of thick wire (12/14ga) in the channel first. Then once the window was in, a little liquid dish soap (undiluted) made for easy work to push the stainless into place. When you're doing all the work pretty much by yourself, there are not enough hands to hold everything in place.

For me, the hardest part of replacing the rear window was drilling the holes through the rubber for the lower trim to mount.

Does the "locking strip" on the front windshield go inside or outside? The manual is not very clear on that subject but the removal instructions (figure 16 in section 19) clearly show, "unlocking the weatherstrip" on the outside of the glass

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  frontseal1.jpg (1.86 KB)

Here is an illustration from bulletin 55T-25 showing a side view of the weatherstrip that would seem to confirm the locking strip is on the outside. Packard detailed a glass dropping issue in 55T-10 and added some retaining clips. Also announded they were going to use a harder weatherstrip. They later said in T-25 there were still issues even with the new harder WS and added more clips. IMO, Steele's rubber is softer than the revised version they were still having issues with. If your car only has the original added clips I would suggest you be sure and add the additional retainers called for in T-25.

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  WS.jpg (153.76 KB)

The head of screw should show.

The gasket I have it covered it up

There should be a drilled hole
1 in center.

1 on each side . and i think 55 had more.e

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d c
Re: 55 400 lower windshield trim
#9
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d c
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This seems to be a recurring topic. I will post what worked for us again as it has seen years since last time. Our windshield though installed with new gasket with the trim in the trunk and was sagging and was way low in the opening. I realize the clips in the bulletin attempt to pull the lower portion of the glass in but this was not all that was needed. Rubber “blocks” were cut as spacers to rest in the weather strip channel from 1/4 inch thick rubber sheet so they were 1/4x1/4x an inch and a half and were used to raise the glass in the opening. All this was done with the glass installed! With suction cups and hand pressure slowly easing the glass up until a spacer could be inserted here and there in several places along the bottom edge. This then made the whole glass fit the opening better and it seemed to sit rearward more on the bottom edge. Then viola- the curves and contours of the mouldings esp in the lower corners fit better and were able to be inserted in the rubber slot in the weatherstrip. If you have a gap between the stainless trim and the roof this would indicate that the glass is very low and your last pic would seem to show yours is by the amount of pinchweld visible above the weatherstrip rubber along the roof line. The trim was “roped in” with fine gauge electric insulated wire and was still a bear but was doable. The process took WEEKS to accomplish. I hope your adhesive does not create a mess in the summer sun. This is just what worked here. May not be everyone’s problem. Good luck.

Posted on: 1/28 12:44
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Might want to look up this post for reference, I thought it interesting

I don't have the clips and lower trim in the rear windshield yet. I am already seeing some sagging in one lower corner due to the softer seal. I am in the process of making new clips now. Will make sure I have enough on hand before I install the front windshield.

If you ever order from Restoration Specialties do not trust that "Illustrations are Actual Size" in the PDF catalog.
What I received today was all wrong. They included an actual catalog so I looked up my item and it is twice the size as the PDF.
That $100+ in parts and shipping that I hope they will exchange. I will call them tomorrow.

Before anyone asks Yes, I had the PDF at 100%

That is disappointing and I do hope they exchange them.

Some Windows systems or maybe just the printers apparently have internal settings that override some software settings. I guess the combination thinks it knows better or maybe the printer software itself has an issue and messes up. As far as being actual size, when doing the 47 I printed the Restoration pages for some clips I bought and found they were spot on.

Before I retired I had to use a company issued inkjet single sheet printer and Windows laptop to print copies of workorder forms on site to hand to the customer. Had to remember to tell it to go well over 100% in order to fill the page. Without that step there was an extra wide margin and actual printing was compressed into about 2/3 the page.

Because that inkjet printer was so slow (with a capital SLOW) I usually emailed the info to myself so I could use my home printer to have extra copies to send back with parts and for my records. When I printed the same form using a Mac and laser printer everything was correct and the form presented and printed perfectly using default settings.

As Howard says, 100% will typically be to their printed catalog, not to the PDF or to anything printed at home as there are too many variables involved. You have your screen resolution, whether or not the screen has been zoomed and if printed, that you are using the same size paper as the original and that you are printing at 100% which is set through your print driver. Printing from a mobile device typically does not give the options to print actual size.