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The heater valve is different and the one for A/C equipped cars is different yet. As I said, there is not much that interchanges.

Extra door strikers are handy, trunk hinges and latches (55 only). There are hundreds of little hardware items that are handy including courtesy light switches.

Mechanically there is not so much as 55 marked a whole new power train and many suspension changes. But the senior brake drums will fit, the rear axle shafts, and the pumpkin.

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Even though it may be a different valve, I believe the cutout and position of the firewall opening is similar enough a standard 55-6 valve would fit. The capillary coil may not be in the exact position to sense the hot air from the small valve air flow cutout opening in the plenum so that area might need a bit of ingenuity.

In an earlier post you mentioned considering a manual operated valve. That might also work well but most of the cable operated valves I found are the straight inline type so would need to be mounted on the inner fender entirely in the engine compt and would need a longer cable. I didn't see any cable operated valves that looked like they would fit the stock opening as is with the cable attachment in a position to utilize the original Bowden cable.

A couple of valves do have a configuration that might be made to work but the firewall opening would need to be changed or enlarged and the depth of the dash pad would mean it would probably need thinning too. No idea if those valves can be obtained with a configuration that would work properly with the location of the off and heat labels on the dash lever.

Thanks everybody for the input. The junkyard is the Harry's U-Pull it in Hazelton PA, so it is not in Germany...Door strikers might be cheap and easy to get and ship, but I guess the big and heavy stuff I will not get unless I need something.

With some patience with penetrating oil, and then tonight being brave with a vice grip, I was able to remove the fuel line fitting from my gas tank. The drain also came out easily, and I was able to empty the tank before dropping it. I knew the gasket for the fuel gauge sender was bad, and suspected that the tank was rusty...well, the suspicion was right. The tank is fairly to very rusted inside. I will start looking for a place local to me that will get this tank healthy again. It feels good to get the tank out and make some progress.
Oh, I found out one thing. I had a socket that is used to remove ball joints on porsches. It fit perfectly on the 4 prong gas tank locking ring. Sure, you can use pliers or a screwdriver, but this tool fit perfectly.

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Quote:Mike,

Interested in seeing a photo of that socket!

It’s very likely cheaper buying a reproduction tank. The last rusty tank I had repaired for a non-Packard ended up costing nearly double but at that time and even today there are no reproductions.

Hi Mal, the Socket is visible in the picture with the fuel level gauge.
pelican

Here is a link to pelican parts that sells them. Also easy to make if you can weld.
We will see if I can find a place to clean the tank, of if I do the cement mixer cleaning Routine myself.

Mike.

I was cleaning the tank up a little getting ready to send it to munich for renovation, and found this stamp on the top of the tank. I can't make out much. OA and 633833 or something like it. Anybody know if this is original?

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