Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Hello everyone,

I know the fuel pump on my 327 is getting tired and has started a very small leak. When driving at speed, it will bog down every now and then and will occasionally fall on it's face when accelerating.

When I replaced the lifters/lapped the valves a couple weeks ago, I noticed the small leak/seeping of fuel around the main seal of the pump.

Are the recommendations to replace the entire pump assembly or rebuild the existing pump? If anyone has a link to said parts I would be incredibly thankful.

As always, you guys rock!

Terrill Machine, Deleon, TX.
Comes back like jewelry

Quote:

I'd rather do the work myself if it comes down to rebuilding. I'm sure he does a phenomenal job, I just prefer getting all the experience I can.

The rebuild is not terribly difficult and if you want to do it yourself the only caution would be to make sure you use a kit with modern ethanol resistant rubber and not an old NOS kit. Only other suggestion would be to make sure you hold the pump arm where it would be at max travel when installed in the car so the diaphragm is at full extension before you tighten the screws holding the casting halves together. That prevents the diaphragm from being stretched and the holes or center arm connection possibly being damaged when the pump is placed back in operation. All of our major vendors should offer a kit and if not, several of us have used kits from Then and Now Automotive.then-now-auto.com/shop-2/ To get the correct kit it is probably best to have the brand and get the pump model number stamped on the mounting flange and give them a call or send an email. Their website is still under construction and mentions using a search bar to find the proper kit but I don't see one to use.

If you would prefer not to do the work then Kanter, Max and a few others offer already rebuilt pumps on an exchange basis. Last I checked an already rebuilt was about double the price of the bare kit.

After reading the rebuild instructions with dozens of pictures to help, I decided not to try it. I ordered a pump from Kanter. Some years later, the casting split in half. I mentioned this with pix on the Duchess Project blog in 2018. (Post #879 at link below). Before I even called Kanter, a replacement pump was on my doorstep. Kanter pumps are guaranteed. I’m sure someone more mechanically inclined (most anyone is) could do it with the right kit and tools.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... ic_id=5878&order=ASC&status=&mode=0

Got my parts from Then and Now Automotive. My pump was a dual action Carter. Kit was very complete and included everything except a couple springs you re-use. The company also has a couple excellent videos on U-Tube that helped a lot. Works on the bench and I should know this weekend if everything works as it should. Not rocket science but not in the easy as pie category either. Good luck.

I went ahead and ordered a replacement from Kanter. Looking forward to seeing how it looks when it arrives.

You may want to consider an electric fuel pump located on frame rail close to tank - less issues with vapor lock, less amp draw on battery trying to get fuel to carb.

Quote:
The current mechanical fuel pump would have no amp draw on the battery whatsoever. I'd like to keep it as original as possible under the hood. Thank you for the input though!

Quote:

I think Dbedsole is writing about the amount of current the starter will draw when first starting the engine.

An electric fuel pump is a good idea to prime the pump after the car has been sitting for a long period and to overcome vapor lock. It can be mounted near the gas tank and in series with the mechanical pump. Not visible under the hood.