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Bob, yes, yours appears to be modified as well as the "hump" has been cut away.

No, you are seeing the old sound insulation, it wrapped around the 'hump', some sort of jute leaving the hump bare rusty metal. I have stripped that away and replaced it with the new felt sound insulation so I do not have a picture of the bare metal anymore but it is as the new one you have.
Bob J.

Got the toe board modified enough so that it finally lays in. The shifter is for sure nearly 2" futher forward. So I had to remove the hump there. I also had to remove a section to clear that bump put on the Jag bellhousing.

Now just need to weld in some patches to close it all back in. Then I need to make that engine cover panel above. I made a few more changes after this picture as the engine was contacting the firewall in a few places. It is no longer.

Does anyone know what size bolts are used to secure the toeboard to the firewall? Half the bolts were missing when I got the car and for the life of me I can't find the where I put the two that were actually in there.

Thanks!

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You are just moving right along with this! Had you been so fast with the Clipper, it would have been on the road in only a few months.

On the panel modifications, are you allowing extra clearance for the engine torque in its mounts?

Yes. Hence the reason I gave it more clearance that it had originally. With the way it was touching the engine I can't imagine it was particularly quiet.

I am curious what covers the larger openings needed for that torque clearance. In photos I have looked at the cane socket area appears to be just the metal top of the transmission case. From what I can see there does not appear to be any provision for a boot or covering. Other than the rubber floor mat or carpet is there anything to hide the gap or keep fumes from getting in?

Mine uses 1/4-28 x 3/4 hex caps. A total of 6.
4 across the top:
2 on the drivers side either side of the steering shaft
1 at the centre hump
1 on the passenger side
Then 2 more, with 1 at the centre side wall on both sides.
Two 1/4-28 x 1 1/2 flathead screws then hold the floor board with 1 at the gas pedal, 1 at the same location on the passenger side and then 2 in front of the seat pan side.

Howard there is a rubber boot that goes over that shifter. Steele sells them.

I'll have to get one of those.

I still need to fab up the upper panel which will cover the back of the engine where the firewall was cutnout to make it fit. It was pretty much just covered with insulation and fiberboard when I got thr car. I'll make a metal plate for it that is removable.

I bought one of those tools that crimps in rivet nuts. So I get those installed around the perimeter of that opening and give me something positive to attach to vs. a sheet metal screws that don't have much bite. Forming that 16ga metal panel with compound curves is going to a chore.

I need the panel removable to access the back side of those cam covers.

Thanks Bob that's helpful. The floor board (literally) had been replaced because of the changes needed and it wasn't affixed in anyway. No screw or bolts in it.

Before I get the tow board complete and bolted down, I want to get the pedal seals in place. They are different than the 51-54 style and have a grove on them. Do these engage the toeboard as opposed to the later style that just travels with pedals?

If anyone has a picture of them installed, that would be helpful, so I made sure I'm not installing them in the incorrect orientation.

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