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Hopefully going to try to get this engine plate finished today so I can move on to other tasks.

The generic dynamat arrived yesterday. So the firewall and toeboard will get a layer of that before the other insulation goes on top. That butyl rubber dynamat works well to reduce noise but also is excellent for sealing off all the unused holes in the toeboard and firewall to reduce water and fume intrusion.

This is the same brand "dynamat" that I used on the '54, and I'm going to use the same double-foil jute insulation I used as well. Really the is more for firewall heat and noise.

But I did order a new battery box and retainer from John Ulrich today. The existing battery box appears to have been welded and patched at least twice and is pretty rusty and thin once again. So for $35, a replacement once made of stainless steel suits me just fine.

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Almost there on the engine cover plate. I need to get some more 1/4-20 Bolts to finish bolting it down, which will help with flattening out the flanges to their final shape, then I can finish welding everything up and grinding it all down smoothly.

Here is a shot from the engine side, showing the Nutserts that have been installed. Once the plate is in the final shape, I should be able to use shorter bolts, so they are not protruding as far. But then again, those make excellent mounting points for wire clamps to hold the harness that needs to go up and over the engine to the starter solenoid and the electric choke on the engine's passenger side.

I think once the engine-side firewall is eventually painted, they won't be as noticeable.

The Nutserts are far more durable than just sheet metal screws.

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They will until you want to quickly remove the cover and one screw will not turn (usually the most hidden or difficult to access out of the bunch) so you give it one extra hard twist. At the point the head or slot gives up you suddenly remember you used that screw for a dual purpose and forgot to remove the extra nut.

Ha! That is true!

There was one already in the body that on the passenger side interior has a square standoff on it (probably for a heater mount), and the slotted flathead faster that went through it was also being used on the engine side as well to clamp the temp sender tube in place. So I did remember to remove that nut and clamp first. But, the screw itself was rust welded in place and the factory 'nutsert" twisted out. So that will get replaced.

Those modern nutserts are very handy and easy to install when you need a blind nut. I bought a cheap kit from amazon that came with the install tool, several different mandrels, and an assortment of nutserts in different sizes.

Engine cover plate and toe board done and looking good. I used some insulation tape between the panels to seal them and reduce any rattle.

With all that looking good, it then got covered up with moisture/heat/sound barrier (aka generic dynamat).

The engine now has has at least an inch clearance between rear of it and the firewall.

With the dynamat in place, that pretty much hermetically seals off any panel gaps and existing holes in the firewall. This should greatly reduce heat and noise.

I'll fab up an a firewall pad with insulation and cardstock later.

Phew.

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maybe I missed it but I guess the thin foil stuff goes down first and then the insulation Is that correct?

Yes, this a butyl rubber foil product (aka dynamat) that you apply direct to metal that greatly reduce sound and vibration and some heat. Also acts as a great moisture barrier. Think of this a replacement of the tar paper stuff they used to use.

Then the thicker jute insulation goes over that. I did the same on my '54 and it makes a world of difference.

Where did the oil and temp sender lines pass through the firewall at originally?

Kevin, see my comments in the pre-war section.

Got the "new to me" handbrake installed and also replaced all the rubber of the pedals and reinstalled them.

Also, spend about 2 hours rebundling the aftermarket wireharness into new groupings that fit the 37 layout better. Especially in regards to the floor dimmer switch and and horn wire.

Also bundle tapped everything to aid in pulling them to there final destinations.

Then I moved on to mounting the fuse box up under the dash. I used some slotted 10-32 machine screws so they wouldn't look put on place on the firewall.

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