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Howard, thanks for that.

I think looking at the available options, as microswitch is my best option.

So I ordered a couple of NO/NC lever style microswitches from Amazon. They will be here tomorrow. Once they get here, I can whip up a holder/mount for the switch and to support/clamp the bowden cable in Fusion 360 and then just 3D print it.

That will keep everything neat, compact, and hidden. Also then if I need to modify it or add mounting tabs, I can do that easily in the software and the mount would cost less than $1 in plastic to print.

A plastic housing also makes it easy to "channel" the inner wire in the bowden cable exactly where I need it to reliably actuate the switch.

I'll post pictures of what I come up with.

I Got a check on the splash rubber trim today.

It appears that my 2" was the width I started with and the actual clearance between frame and tin is about 1/2 " .

Hope this gets to you soon enough.

Was GREAT seeing the car out moving..

Took mine on a 85 mile ride today through Kitsap county Washington.

Perfect, thanks for that Larry. The rivets came in yesterday. So if I can get the garage warm enough, I will get the inner fenders painted and give them a couple of days to cure, then I can try to get the rubber made up for them.

I'll have to alter the passenger side inner fender to clear the intake horn for the SU carbs. The lip on the outer fender had already been relief cut to provide spacing. So the inner fender will have to be altered as well. Perhaps I can make up a rubber piece to cover the needed relief cut to keep the tires from throwing road grime through that area.

You can see where the outer fender was already cut in this photo.

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Kev, on the electric choke switch - how about a simple pull type headlight switch? Attach the switch somewhere convenient under the dash, attach the Bowden inner cable to the end of the switch rod (of course, after removing the knob) and wire it up. The hardest thing would be figuring out a way to attach the Bowden inner cable to the end of the switch rod. The outer portion of the Bowden cable would have to be secured also.

Kev,

For what it's worth, according to Dar Kuehl's book, the inner fenders should be painted body color. May not be a big deal for you depending on how you want to present the car.

BTW, I loved the video of Nicolle and you cruising around the subdivision. You've come a long way in a short amount of time and should be very proud of your accomplishment. Good thing you didn't wait until today (-3 degrees windchill).

Dezi, thanks! Yeah, it for sure got much colder over the last 48hrs!

I think I am going to paint them black (at least for now), as the exterior color, or even choice of color is still many moons away. Plus, I think the original color of this body was black.

The plan is to paint and clean up the engine compartment as much as possible. Painted surfaces are easier to keep clean, and black is the acceptable middle ground for underhood in lieu of the correct color.

For what it is worth. The inner panels I believe were semi gloss black. The only way to verify this is, to find an original painted non black car. I always felt he was wrong on that,but how about asking Flack,what he thinks about this,then I will buy it.

Agreed Gary. I would certainly defer to Flack's knowledge on the subject.

Got the rubber skirting made up. Still need to flatten some of the rivet holes where they are a tad mushroomed. They give them a semi-gloss black paint. But otherwise, it was a quick hour job to template and make them up.

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I am in agreement with Gary Kulp. I had a NOS pair, semi-gloss black, not primer. Every original car I've ever seen has been black inner fenders.
Go ahead prove Gary and I wrong...we're waiting. We have about a hundred years headstart on looking....