Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Forgot to add the picture...

Attach file:

---

  Screenshot_20230206_182832_Gallery.jpg (231.32 KB)

What's your plan for cleaning/painting inside the doors? I'm getting ready to do that on the Panama right now, and I'm thinking clean off as much rust as I can, POR-15 then Dynamat on the outer skins.

-Kevin

Dynamat is a heavy material. Using large sheets to line all of the door will add considerable weight and may put too much strain on hinges and latches. Partially covering the door panel will provide enough sound deadening. Just a suggestion...

Also Dynamat is a relatively expensive "captive" product. Ross has found Amazon sells the same basic material but at much less than the cost of Dynamat.

Won't swear this is the one Ross uses but others have used Noico 80 mil sound deadening sheets. Amazon carries that as well as some other brands that appear to be very similar to Dynamat.

You might compare specs and prices of a more generic brand to Dynamat and see if the price advantage is still present.

This is what I did on the '54. This generic dynamat is not all that heavy. I'd say that piece on the door is less than 2 lbs.

I just painted the inside side of the door with epoxy primer, over the top of whatever what left of the original deadening material, which looked like undercoating.

Then I used the "dynamat" as a vapor shield. It really may the door "thunk" when closed. And protects the door panels from moisture.

Now the 115-C, it may be a different matter. The top is always going to be the biggest source of sound and heat/cold intrusion. So not sure how much difference the "dynamat" will make.

Attach file:

---

  dynamat.jpg (32.81 KB)

Glass "should be" done on Friday. Quoted price out the door was $275. That was to pull the old glass, and use that as patterns. Make the new glass, grind edges to match old, and reinstall in the frames.

I think the price is reasonable.

Good price for the glass! I need to see what I can get mine for.

When I said "Dynamat" I was referring to any brand that does the same thing. ?I probably should have clarified. I used Noico on the floors and roof, and it worked great. For the inside of the doors I was planning on just putting some strips of it in, and not covering every square inch. This stuff just absorbs vibrations to deaden sound, and that can be done even if the whole surface is not covered.

Kev, did you have issues with mounting the panels with the dynamat placed there?

No, I didn't. If you look at the picture, I made sure the "dynamat" was well inboard of the door panel clip holes. This was to make sure the door panel still laid flat along the edges.

While the windows are being worked on I figured I'd start clearing up the frame and track.

I had to really pry the hard weatherstripping out of the perimeter of the vent window.

When I did that, these little metal pieces fell out. Are they shims? There at the top portion of the frame in the channel between the side of the rubber and the inner channel wall. 2 on one window, and only 1 on the other.

Also, I noticed that one window had stainless beaded window channel and the other one did not. The channel stops at this metal track. Is it supposed to stop there? Or was this replaced and cut short? Someone check me that the channel is supposed to be 5/8" wide by 1/2" tall.

I'm going to derust and paint what steel I can and then polish up the stainless. I have all new seals waiting to go in.

Attach file:

---

  Window1 Large.jpeg (143.71 KB)


  Window2 Large.jpeg (118.93 KB)


  Window3 Large.jpeg (114.79 KB)

So, I am a little perplexed on the division window channel.

When I pulled it apart, there was only a window channel in top area (yellow line). One side had a stainless beaded channel, and the other side had only a plain rubber channel. Both, I am sure, were later replacements as there were not affixed in any way. Just wedged in there. There are holes for rivets or screws, which were not used.

The steel channel (orange line) had no channel in place. But there are two screw shafts holding it to the stainless structure. The heads of those fasteners appear to have been sheared off. So I wonder if there was an original channel in there that was removed, which sheared the heads off.

I can't imagine there wouldn't have been a felt or fussy channel in that area as that edge of the glass would be exposed when rolled down.

The top part measure approx 9/16 in width, and the bottom portion approx 1/2 in width.

Checking Steele Rubber's website, they list this:

steelerubber.com/rigid-run-channel-30-0245-57

Which is 9/16" wide and 30" long. Sold in pairs.

So given that, is the lower section (orange) just remnants of an old channel that should be removed? And the Steele Rubber goes from the top to the very bottom? (red line).

If anyone with a 37 115c, 37 120c or 36 120b convertible couple can shed some light, I would appreciate it, as I need to order something soon.

Attach file:

---

  DivisionChannel.jpg (232.67 KB)