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Okay so I was I went back and started reading a forum that Andrew had started not quite sure how long ago but probably a little while ago and I did everything tested everything that was suggested in that post or forum post whatever as he was also having no spark as I said before I've changed everything you know plugs wires coil distributor rotor the only thing I haven't changed is the points I replace the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor side I also replace the wire that is inside the rotor I'm sorry distributor going from the points to the distributor terminal still no spark I switched the battery terminals around so that would they would be the ground strap would go to the positive terminal and the negative terminal would go to the starter still no difference the only thing that at this point I think might be plausible is the ignition wire running from the coil to the ignition it does seem a little stiff although it has been replaced with the modern wire so I'm thinking that's probably good at this point I don't know I really don't

Okay let's theoretically say that maybe my car was converted to a 6 volt system which I really don't think it was how would I know that I mean the voltage regulator that's attached to the firewall says it's a 6 volt regulator.

Maybe one of you guys could send me a diagram of the wires to and from the regulator voltage regulator I don't know if that picture that I attached looks right to you guys or not. thank you appreciate it

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I believe you are working on a 52 and you can download the entire wiring diagram for the car here. In the meantime here is a partial of the engine compt showing the wiring from the generator to regulator. Wire 2-RG is the connection that sends power to the car.

Unlikely the car was changed as it was originally 6v but there is always a possibility it was converted to 12v at some time and then someone else converted it back to stock.

Note that most voltage regulators have terminals labeled -- usually on or very near a terminal although they can be ink stamped on the base under the regulator. While the Autolite and Delco regulators Packard used are shown in the drawing, aftermarket replacements can have different terminal layouts. The generator terminals will have an A or an F stamped on the case but the ARM is generally the larger diameter terminal.

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Thanks Howard I appreciate it I'm going to spend some time studying as diagrams I'm trying to follow the wires and whatnot and see if I can't find breaking the wire somewhere or something else I know with the threads or posts that Andrew had done he mentioned disconnecting a wire I believe that went to the overdrive I'm kind of wondering if it might be a similar situation with this car however I'm not entirely sure because it used to be an automatic and someone had converted it to a manual so that'll be at the very least an interesting chore to deal with.

I looked I took the cover off of the voltage regulator and looked all right didn't look corroded or dirty or a broken or anything like that the same thing with the fuses next to the battery those look okay so think I'm just going to have to work with that diagram and maybe try to figure something out

The dash indoor instrument panel should come off basically in one piece right with the group of screws running by where the windshield is on the inside or should be the only screws or bolts holding it dash on because that's really the only way I'm going to I think I'm going to get to that ignition and everything else is my fat ass is not going to squeeze on that floor hooking up under the dash lol

If the cluster has never been out before there is a good chance it will give you grief. Almost all Packard dash work was assumed that it would be done by crawling under the dash.

In addition to the two screws pointing upward at the top of the cluster, from the factory there are some studs at the bottom with nuts and washers that will need to come off. If the cluster has never been removed those nuts are probably still on and they can be hard to get to if switches or something else is in the way.

Even with all the screws out or free there is also a probability that from the factory the entire wire loom or if lucky just a few wires to the gauges will be routed around or thru the steering column brace. Those wires are usually located in such a way that the cluster will only pull out an inch or so unless the wires are disconnected and rerouted .

Well of course what else is new LOL. although honestly though I I was just thinking I may not have to do all that I mean I'm getting power to the coil but not the distributor I've even taken the coil wire or wire off the center of the distributor and put it to the block there's still no spark there and the only wire that I have not touched inside the distributor is the one at the bottom that goes from hell I don't even know still one wire that I haven't touched.

I guess the only thing left after that wire is replacing the point and I have no idea how those are coming off I can take out one screw that loosens it so you can adjust it what the adjusting screw doesn't come off so I don't know how else how to do that I mean in theory as far as I understand you should be able to just take those two screws out in the points come off but that adjusting screw only goes so far in either direction so I have no idea

I'd recommend you download and read the The Servicemans Ignition Training Manual. It goes through everything soup to nuts and may help you.

You find that in the Literature Archive here on the website.

So I just wanted to let everyone know that I appreciate all the advice and tips and everything else I finally got the package to run last night still got some work to do with it cuz it won't stay running on its own I got to probably adjust the carburetor so that it'll at least idle but she runs I didn't really hear any odd noises coming from the engine so I mean that's a good thing but I won't be able to really know for certain what's really going on with it if anything until I can get it to idle on its own

Also does anybody have any thoughts on whether I should use any certain kind of oil antifreeze transmission fluid especially after it's been sitting for so long which they need to be cleaned out changed?

Yeah it took it took quite a bit to get it to actually start a lot of starting fluid a lot of starting fluid and backfiring a lot of rust coming out of the exhaust pipe smoking like a basket for a little while still smoking but it's not quite as bad I even flooded events but the main thing is she's running