Packard Forum Index » General

Leak free? Yes, it's possible. With the price of lubricants today, it's a money-saver. Leak-free parts stay a lot cleaner, and rubber items like engine or transmission mounts won't be rotted by leaking oil.

As stated above, the condition and finish on the seal running surfaces are critical.

Another thing to consider is crankcase ventilation systems and the small air vents on things like transmissions and rear axles. Some crancase vent systems have filters that must be kept clean to avoid restriction, which will promote leaks.

Many standard and automatic transmissions will have a small vent of some type somewhere on the upper part of the case.These can stick or become clogged and that can cause leaks.

The same is true of rear axles. Some vents are hard to find. Many rear axles have a drilled bolt that holds the brake line terminal block to the axle tube or differential housing, this usually has a loose tin cap to prevent dust and road splash from getting in. If the cap is stuck or covered in grease or if the drilled bolt is plugged, it will often cause even good seals to leak. Seals can wear, harden, shrink or crack. Fresh new seals are preferred, and well-aged NOS may not give good service.

Don't overlook the environmental aspects of leaking oil. Those drops on the highway get washed off by the rain and end up in the local watershed. Bacteria will eventually eat it, but will inhibit oxygen transfer until. Plus it's can create a slippery surface during wet weather. Definitely keep a couple pans with drysorb in them under while in the garage. I find these under waterheater pans, very economical and about the right size ~30" and are only a 1 1/2" high. Cost under $10 - b4 Bidenomics.
if you can feel with your finger nail or see a depression where the seal rode, it may not be leak tight with just a new seal.
It's better to reface/build-up(weld) and machine back than plate. Have to post weld temper to prevent a brittle failure.
Chrome, unless it's plasmaspray, requires a cheaper soft substrate to buildup and adhere to and it's not a thick coating continuous typically. They can plate black hard chrome, typical for diesel pistons. Need to be specific there.
On cast or mild, common to resleeve. Shrink fit. In fact, they often come sleeved under the seal, so they can be replaced. I've done this a lot for rotating industrial equipment in hazardous services in my past.

Not sure what seals are on that year, but some of the old seals are fiber or rope and then tend to not be as good as the modern face seals. Lube oil was viewed very differently when it was worth a few cents a qt vs now when it's $8.

Quote:

Agreed! Other The booster piston and valve have small vacuum leaks the brakes are good! (Rebuild kit on the list.) The oil leaks seem to change the more I drive, I think they may actually be getting better, and my worst leak may be the shaft seal on the gear selector on the transmission.