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I like the way the steering wheel and instrument panel wood graining match. Very attractive.

John, yes, it was a happy surprise when the woodgraining returned from Ron in Texas.

Managed to finally get my battery cut-off switch installed.

Since I have a split back seat, I can quickly fold the driver seat forward to reach the area behind the seat, which is also the large rumble seat foot well.

So I mounted the switch through the floor directly behind the seat. The seat is in is fully back position. So no danger there. Underneath, it's a straight 14" shot from the battery terminal to the switch terminal. Also the switch comes through in a portion of the X frame, so it pretty much enclosed by frame in a triangle.

I just ordered cables to go from the battery to the switch and from the switch up to the starter solenoid.

It takes about 5 seconds to fold the seat and turn off or on the battery power, and it's completely hidden from view.

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Kev, neat job. Did you switch the ground or hot?

I switched the hot. Just made more sense in my situation due to the length of the hot feed up to the starter solenoid on the passenger side.

Cleaned up and painted the firewall black for now. It gives me a cleanable paint surface.

Eventually the entire car will get stripped and painted. B

But for now, at least it will be clean and neat inside.

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I believe switching the ground is preferred, but sometimes the wiring routing requires switching the hot like you did. Still good as you can disconnect the battery from the electrical system. Good for safety and prolonging battery life when car is unused for a long period. I switched the hot on my 115C for the same reasons too.

Longshot.... but does anyone that has replaced their convertible top and boot have their old top boot lying around and looking for a new home?

I ask because I could put that on that car with some blocking/padding undeath to give the illusion of having a top but in the down position. This gives me something more presentable until I can piece together the rest of the components actually to put the top mechanism on the car.

If so, let me know and what you want for it. It could be for a 1936-1937 120 or 115. Maybe 1938 as well?

Here is a picture for reference:

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So my fuel gauge has been a bit erratic. Either it reads correctly, currently at about 1/2 tank or it reads full.

Sometimes this happens without ever the car running or moving it. I can turn the ignition switch on and sometime it will read full, turn it off and back on then it will read correctly.

This last time it was stuck on full again. So as a test I connected a alligator clip on a test wire to the gauge tank terminal. Turn on the ignition, it read full, I grounded that wire, and then it read empty (as expected) when I ungrounded that wire in then read correctly.

After a few seconds (like 20) it suddenly shot back to full. Like some kind of residue magnetism.

So based on this, I think it's a faulty coil or something in the gauge. Maybe a winding or something.

Any opinions? Just trying to make sure based on that it a gauge problems before I try to get under the dash and remove it.

The gauge is a balancing act with one coil always pulling the needle toward full and one toward empty. Since it always wants to jump to full I would look for a wire or ground issue -- maybe wire is broken somewhere and intermittently makes contact or maybe there is a poor crimp connection or the tank ground is questionable.

Since it works at times, if it is in the gauge it might be because somehow the sender terminal on the back of the gauge was twisted when tightening the wire. That could have caused an issue with the connection inside. Mechanical binding after a severe jolt is always possible and I suppose it is equally possible since the car is converted that the gauge was exposed to 12v and somehow the coil was burned or a core permanently magnetized. If that is the case I would think it would always read incorrectly.

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