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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Home away from home
 
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Don - I don't know what's considered "normal" regarding the fuel bowl on these cars. Maybe it's normal to have it be half to mostly empty? My car seems to run fine....it never struggles for fuel, and there is always more than enough in the accelerator pump. I guess I think that the fuel pump should always be pushing fuel and that the needle and float will determine how much fuel is let into the carb. If the pump is working well then I would think it would force fuel into the fuel bowl until it's allowed into the carb. Right?
TxGoat - The vacuum side of my pump is hooked up to the manifold and the wiper motor, as it should be. The sound is more internal to the pump. My dad's '38 has the woven covering on the fuel line. I've not seen the same on a 50's car, but then again I haven't seen a huge amount of them. -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/5/17 0:54
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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I've had a fuel pump that made a sort of hooting sound as it worked. It worked OK, so I didn't worry about it. A leaky fuel pump valve might make a noise. I'd be more concerned about any kind of knocking oe clicking sound coming from the pump.
I would think the glass bowl would stay full on a car that was running, but that does not seem to be the case. If the car shows no sign of fuel starvation, I'd ignore it. Buicks in the 1950s came with a glass bowl filter mounted up near the carburetor. These filters had a typical fuel inlet and outlet, and a third outlet at the top of the filter casting that had a line running back to the fuel tank connected to it. The purpose of the arrangement was to allow bubbles to escape, as well as limiting fuel line pressure at the carburetor and also keeping the fuel pump and lines cooler by circulating gasoline continuously back to the gas tank. You might look online for an image of a 1959 Buick fuel filter. The only difficulty with putting a similar filter on a Packard would be the lack of a return line tap on the gas tank. If you don't mind modifying the tank, a return line could be T'd off the fuel line near the carburetor. It would need a restrictor to limit flow rate to assure that fuel reached the carburetor. But if the car runs fine as-is, I'd leave it be.
Posted on: 2023/5/17 8:49
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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My 1965 Cadillac has a glass bowl filter that is very similar to that on the Packard but, as TxGoat described, it has three connectors, the third of which vents back to the tank. However, only cars with A/C had the third line. I don’t recall ever seeing its bowl full either.
Posted on: 2023/5/17 11:45
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Good to know that others have seen the same as I'm seeing. It doesn't appear to be a problem, so I'm going to leave it alone and focus on other things.
I need to pull the hood off and clean up the rust underneath. Then paint and install a hood pad. Not looking forward to getting it off. -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/5/17 13:35
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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The original hood pad on a 54 is a yellowish fiberglass-looking pad. It isnt the nicer-looking black one that the 55/56 cars used.
I'm not using one on my '54.
Posted on: 2023/5/17 13:40
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-BigKev
1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog 1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog |
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Re: KPack's 1954 Panama
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Quote:
Yeah, this is an area where I will fudge the originality just a bit. I picked up a hood pad that is a dark gray/black fiberglass material. Similar to the original material but the black will look much nicer than yellow. I could run without one, but the inside of the hood is pockmarked from rust and the hood pad will make things look much cleaner. It should help with any vibrations going through the metal too. Either way, the hood needs to come off to clean up the rust and repaint the underside. I'll probably pull the hood springs and levers while I'm at it and repaint those too. -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/5/17 13:58
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Re: KPack
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Be anxious to see what adhesive you wind up using and the pad coating or bonding process needed to keep it in place. The factory method or cement has not seemed to have made it into the common knowledge status yet. Some have said it was upholstery contact cement -- the super strong type which is bought in bulk and sprayed out of guns but I never found anything in writing or know how successful it actually might be.
The "super or extra strength" spray can contact adhesive recommended by some vendors seems to let go fairly often. Maybe it is the underhood heat or maybe the pad needs some kind of surface prep before adhesive is applied to such a porous surface I still have a mostly new black and yellow fiberglass pad that was put on a 54 Pacific. It was put on with the super strength "commercial upholstery" spray can stuff and stayed on the hood all of about a month before It wound up draped across the engine.. Dwight's 56 repro pad with the vinyl covering has a different surface he says will hold glue better so he recommends super strength spray can stuff. Never put the one I bought on so cannot say for sure he is correct.
Posted on: 2023/5/17 15:08
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Howard
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Re: KPack
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Quote:
I'm going to try the upholsterer's contact cement...the same stuff I used to do the door panels and headliner. I'll shoot it through a gun again. We'll see how it does. This stuff is MUCH better than anything that comes out of a spray can. Will it be enough? Maybe, maybe not. But I'm willing to try and see. -Kevin
Posted on: 2023/5/17 16:33
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Re: KPack
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I replaced the hood insulation pad on my 55 Clipper. I used a double layer of the insulating material to give the pad some thickness and improve the look. Sprayed the engine side black. Used a 3M rattle can spray adhesive initially, but ended up redoing the outside edges with a tube of 3M weather strip adhesive. I was most pleased with the results. Here are the photos of the job. Hope this helps.
Attach file:  IMG_0007.jpeg (61.62 KB) IMG_0008.jpeg (54.82 KB) IMG_0010.jpeg (61.04 KB) IMG_0013.jpeg (54.27 KB)
Posted on: 2023/5/18 12:35
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And make happen What occupies our mind... (W. Scherer) |
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