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I hate zippers! Especially the one on the rear window of my convertible top.
The handle was broken off of the zipper pull, so I took that off and got a "zlide on" Clip on zipper pull. That almost works but I can only zipper up one side of the window before the zipper does not close properly. Arrgh.
From what I measure, the zipper is 5/16 inch, or about 8,7 mm wide.
I can only find zipper pulls for metal zippers that are 8mm, which don't seem to fit.
I am not a tailor, that is for sure.

The Mail Lady brought me a big package today! The tank was dipped, media blasted, sealed inside, primed and powder coated outside. It took a couple of months, but it looks awesome! I know way "not correct" but it will work, and looks pretty.
I installed a swingset in the yard for my daughters today (lots of digging) so I will not install this tonight.... hope to get this installed tomorrow!

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My tank looks the same. It looks really good. FYI, your going to need to add a dedicated ground wire as the powder coat will prevent the tank grounding.

You can see where I added the ground fire through the tank flange in my 54 blog.

Right on Kev.
I ran a ground wire with black cloth covered wire, and ran a new brown cloth covered wire to the sender. The tank went in without too much fuss, and when the 19mm hose arrives, I can put that on the tank vent. Then it is time to get some gas, check for leaks and see if the rest of my work this past 6 months has been correct.

Ok, the fuel System is back together, and she is running and driving again. Driving with the top down is pretty awesome, bug I still have some work to do on this car. After putting in the new water pump, it looks like the pulleys are not lined up properly. The old water pump had inch an 1/4 as measured in the below pic. The new water pump has inch and 1/8. Does anybody know if there is a spec on this? I think the flange was pressed in too far when the pump was rebuilt.
Grrr, looks like I will somehow have to get the water pump pully 1/8 inch out further.
The attached pictures I took months ago, but thought maybe my old pump was not right.....either I pull the flange out a bit, or I rig up some kind of spacer.

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I measured a second water pump I have, and it is also 1 1/4 inch, so I am pretty sure this rebuilt pump from Kanter has the flange pressed on too far. Time to Remove the Rad, Fan and pully to see how I can fix this.

On another topic, anybody know what this Button retainer for the Convertible top is called, or where I can find one?

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I was able to use this puller to take off the Fan flange from the water pump shaft. I should be able to use this to now adjust the flange on the pump on the car and get my pulleys aligned! Proof of concept is done, now to do it on the good pump on the car.

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If you need to press the hub make sure to remove the back plate and support the end of the shaft directly. Do not rely on the casting and impeller to hold the shaft. A few good pumps have had premature deaths when the castings or bearings broke in the press.

Good point, but I only want to pull the Fan flange towards the radiator 1/8 of an inch. I should be able to do that without stressing the bearing or casting. I just have to keep the water pump from rotating so I can tighten the puller.

I pulled out the pulley flange with my puller, and it seemed to work. I put everything back together and checked the pulley alignment with a straight edge. I will go for a ride tomorrow and see if things are better. Next task will be a flush of the cooling System. It is still rusty.

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