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As Bob said. There is no adjustment at the hinge Pivot. The only adjustment is where there the hinge attaches to the wood frame. There is a bit elongated holes allowing for a little bit of side to side and front to back adjustment.

Do adjust postion up or down would require shims.

Thank you all for the information. My issue is the vertical position of the rear of the rumble seat lid when it is closed. It's just too high. It opens, closes, and latches very nicely.

I could elongate the holes in the steel body braces where the hinge assemblies mount, but to do so, I'd have to remove the cardboard liners for access, and that doesn't appear to be feasible.

I'd rather not cut into the wood by 1/2" or so, but that appears to be the best choice. The cardboard liners must be repro, since they look new. They don't amount to much, but shipping alone would make replacements expensive.

The wood does not appear to have ever been disturbed, and looks to be in good condition. Everything else on the body fits very well, including the trunk lid, doors, hood, etc, so I'm not sure how the misalignment occurred. There is no structural rust or rust repair evident, or any collision damage.

I don't think the rumble lid has ever been replaced, but that is possibile. Paint appears to be original, or at least very old.

You can try to shim under the just top holes where the hinges connect to the wood frame. That should canter the lid lower on the back edge.

Door windlace installed.

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Working on attaching the rumble seat skin to its frame. All this metal was missing when I got the car. This metal screws to the wood frame and the edge of the skin bend over this metal to connect the two.

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Is that the seat bottom frame?

The seat bottom is self contained metal and cushion assemble. It just sits on a couple of wood riser blocks on the floor. (See pic)

The is the wood frame that the rumble seat lid attaches to and also the back cushion.

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Thanks
Kevin...

One last thing.

Dimensions..

I carefully opened up the flange completely on one side and partially on the two sides.

Then I could slip the frame assemble in place under the edge of the partially opened flange side.

I just need to go around and close up all the flanges and then hit it with some paint.

Once the handles come back from the locksmith, then I can mortise out the latch assemble.

The splotchy black paint is a coat of rust converter.

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Well done sir, the body builders salute you! A big & scary check mark off the to-do list eh!
Bob J.