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OK, I found a photo from when I dissembled the steering column last winter. It shows 2 of the 3 parts and their location. SO, since they were in the same bag I assume, that you are right, that is the horn spring.

So what the heck is the larger spring?

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It has been so many years since I had a 55-6 wheel apart I just don't remember all the parts to the horn ring assy and do not have any decent photos. The plate along side the large spring looks to be a spring seat so the spring could be part of the horn ring assy.

Am posting a photo Kevin Az posted in the blog when he repainted his wheel. It's a bit dark but does show a spring as part of the horn ring. It looks to be like the large spring and there is a service article cutaway view of the wheel hub also showing a spring. Not having a reference or remembering the wheel specifics, cannot say if it is the same spring in both photos.

I did find a photo someone posted of a wheel showing he long slender spring on the shaft but there looks to be something I cannot identify on the top end of the spring. Can't tell for sure but think it is just a flat end on the spring. It almost looks like that inner race piece too. Verify you do have an inner race on your shaft. That bearing and race assy along with the long slender spring under the wheel was, aside from differences due to shaft or column dimensions, virtually the same on all models since the early 40s.

If you do not have the race already installed that is where the part goes. If you already have a race in place then am not sure if the extra part is a bearing race or if it is the unknown object on top of the long spring in the photo.

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spring is compressed behind the horn ring, the plate goes under the nut holding the steering wheel on. see photo

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I tried something different with the door alignment. I put all the bolts in and left them loose so that the door flops around on the hinges.
Then I lifted the door as high as I could and tried to close and align it with the door jam. It was still not high enough and would not close.

I have to assume that the whole door opening is out of alignment someplace and there is absolutely nothing I can do about that at this point.

My only option, I believe, is try to shim the lower hinge and/or drill out the hinge holes where it bolts to the door. I only need about 3/8" to 1/2"

I mess with it this weekend.

I am still working on the passenger door alignment.
I have that one extra lower hinge so I am going to enlarge the 3 holes and see how that works before drilling the good hinge.

I hate asking questions that should have easy answers. That new fuel tank that I received this week does not have a hole for the fuel line. In fact, I can't find a hole in the original tank either (except rust holes). Do I have to drill my own?

You should not need to do anything except install the tank. Anything else and it needs to go back.

If you mean the fuel outlet port, that should be near the filler tube side in a fitting located about halfway up the side of the tank but facing forward. The fitting is for a 5/16 inverted flare nut and the tube. A drain port should be on the same side but near the middle at the bottom on the side.

Here is a photo Ross posted some years ago showing the tank inside. You can see where the outlet line is positioned and where it exits the side and the drain port near the bottom.

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That's what I mean by a dumb question.

I am walking around that tank and I could not see anything. I read your post and looked again. This time I turned it over and there they were just as you described.
It's been a long day and I am tired. I am so tired of fighting that door alignment.

Concerning the door alignment, some earlier pics show heavy rust in that area and some repair work. It looks like active rust may still be present.

Given the issues you're having with door alignment, I'm guessing that the door post is not in correct alignment with the rest of the body. There may also be heavy rust around some of the body to frame mounts, and that can result in misalignment problems.

A permanent fix for the rotted door post would be to obtain a good doner piece and cut out the rusted and patched up parts and replace with a larger, solid piece, paying careful attention to correct alignment.

The replacement piece would need to extend beyond the rust area, and could be tacked in place and the door hung to test alignment, then final welding, rust-proofing, and finishing done. The door post is a stressed structural part of the body, and it needs to be properly repaired.

Yes, there was a lot of rust. That area beneath the hinge and the rocker were either gone or nearly so.
That is why I tried my best to fix all that and strengthen that area before I removed the body from the frame.
That was 9 years ago and I am not going backwards now. At least not until I try everything I can to resolve the issue in other ways.

Keep in mind that the front fender will have to align correctly with the door and it probably has a mounting point or two on the door post. A fender that isn't in the right place will look bad and may prevent the door from opening without rubbing the fender or even bending it.

If the door post is weak or out of the correct position, it could lead to problems with the door, the fender, the hood, and perhaps even the windshield.

I'd proceed with great caution. Fitting the door won't do much good if the fender can't be fitted.