Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

As long as there is fuel in the tank, the clicker type pump should stop clicking within a few seconds of turning it on.
If it clicks more than 15 or 20 seconds, you probably need to check for a leak or a flooding carburetor. A Leak could occur anywhere on the pressure side of the system, including the flex line and the fuel pump diaphragm.

I have read a number of posts on the AACA forum where people have installed low pressure electric pumps in series with mechanical ones not only for the reasons described above, but to deal with vapor lock problems arising from ethanol-containing gas and hot suer days. It seems like a good way to go would be to use the electric pump to get some gas into the carburetor for starting, and turn it off. Turn it back on temporarily if vapor lock occurs.

I've tried this approach before on my 37, as many have stated, to prime if it's been sitting awhile. Did some research and supposedly had gotten the correct electric pump (Airtex E8902),but when I would accelerate the car to about 55mph it would start to sputter. Seems like the fuel was being slightly restricted through the electric fuel pump. Pulled the electric fuel pump off and that fixed it. I need to try to find another electric fuel pump that'll work more so now that I'm dealing with a bit of the vapor lock issues when it's hot out.

A bypass loop with check valve would probably cure your issue. It's also possible you have a restriction in your system other than the electric pump.

Quote:

Might have to look into a check valve you describe. Mechanical fuel pump has been rebuilt, gas tank has been cleaned. I tried the electric fuel pump with and without the filter.

Digger Dave,
Trust me - if your engine is rebuilt properly, you won't need the assist on long hills. I can't believe the power my 245 CU has after being completely machined. Hills that used to require a downshift, I now steam up in high gear!
Chris.

My 1939 Six and 1940 110 were the same. The 245 is a great engine!

I used a pump from our 88 Honda accord mounted back by the tank. Works great on my 35 120.

Mike

To stray just a little off topic, but I wanted to add a comment. My '51 had an electric pump in series with the mechanical one (which didn't work) when I purchased the car. The pump would start when the key was turned on which made it very convenient.

I decided to rewire the pump so that it had to be turned on with a switch. I hid the switch inside the driver's side ash tray such that it could be turned on or off by opening the ash tray.
I did this as an anti-thief measure figuring with the pump off, the car would start and run for a bit then stop. Leaving the thief & car part way out of a parking spot and wondering what to do with a car that would not start.

I have a Carter 6 volt rotary vane fuel pump mounted close to my tank on rear frame rail. Even though the tank has been pulled, cleaned, repaired and sealed I installed a 10 micron filter on inlet to the pump and a fuel pressure regulator (1-6 psi) on pump discharge to control fuel pressure at carb 3.5 - 4 psi. I removed the mechanical pump and sealed off opening with a plate. It works quite well - does not drain precious battery amperage trying to operate mechanical pump, I do not have to worry about fuel leaking past the diaphragm into crank case, the potential for vapor lock significantly reduced and probably saved a horsepower or two by removing the mechanical pump.