Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

On my 55 Clipper I need to redo the rear brakes soon. I also want to replace most/all of the rear axle seals. The manual specs a lot of special tools for disassembly and inspection.

I'm wondering mostly what is a typical repair and inspection for the rear axle. Hopefully I can do the basic disassembly with just a typical brake drum puller.

I didn't need to any special tools to replace the inner and outer axle seals on my 54. A slide hammer helps. And you'll need the tapered axle drum puller.

I replaced the rear seals and bearings on my '55 last spring and didn't require anything special other than a brake drum puller. Although I didn't need a slide hammer I could see how a car that has seen limited maintenance over the years could use the extra "bump."

The only special tool needed for inspection is used to determine the bearing end play. There are a number of threads on here that demonstrate how to build one of these tools at home. I chose to use a dial indicator instead. Either way, it's not much of an obstacle to overcome.

I seem to recall the manual has a pretty good explanation of this service. Just remember to only pull one axle at a time so that the centering block in the differential stays put. Also, keep track of your shims as you go if you're keeping the existing roller bearings. If you're replacing them, you'll likely be starting from scratch in regards to end play so which side they came from isn't important.

-SG

Edit: You can find forum member JWL's inspection tool in this thread.

Also, if you find yourself needing to add shims, know that making your own is relatively easy. Just ask.

Thanks everyone. Will need to loan a brake drum puller from Autozone or something but then it sounds decent. Couldn't just yank them off by hand like on the front wheels even though they spin freely. One axle at a time is a good tip. Need to re read that section because I don't understand the arrangement of the centering block.

I have a HF clamp on dial indicator. It has a pretty goofy feel to it but seems to be accurate especially at low displacements. Will double check.

Unless your pulling the diff apart for some reason, no need to worry about the centering block.

Generally, if your just replacing the seals, your shim spacing wouldn't change. Just put it back together in the same order.

But you can always check to see if play if off to start with.

Thanks. Even before this car was parked for 30 years the level of care on it seemed only adequate at best so I'm not assuming anything. Definitely plan to check the play.

For example, the transmission shift linkage had a good amount of play, the heater core was already bypassed, it has a cheap repaint, and a new fuel line was ran without even removing the old one.

I'm not sure that Autozone will have what you need. You want to find something heavy duty to remove those drums from the tapered axle shafts without damage. I used an old Blue Point puller like this:




Even with the right tool it's a bear. You'll have to beat it like it owes you money. If you run into trouble (or just get tired of pounding), keep the axle nut loosely engaged on the axle threads and leave the puller under tension overnight. It will eventually let go usually with a (literal) bang.

As for the centering block in the differential: if you do the job right and service only one side at a time, you'll not need to learn anything about it. If you pull both axles simultaneously it can rotate out of position and you'll learn more about it than you probably want to know.

Lastly, just for future forum users, you might consider editing your thread title. The 1954-55 axles are similar in their use of tapered axles and shims. The 1956 axles are of a more contemporary design that share nothing in common with the older units and they do not require the service you are about to perform.

-SG

I had to pull the right rear axel on my 1947 Custom Super Clipper. I followed the directions from HH. I would strike the pull handle occasionally as I puttered in the garage. Eventually I heard a satisfying BANG and the axel broke loose!

I bought my puller as a teenager in the '60s and not quite as heavy duty as the one that ScottG posted but it's lasted all these years. I just used it last week to remove the 1951 Henney-Packard's huge 14" rear drum but in this case it came off easily as it was not on tightly while waiting for the brake work (there was nothing attached to the backing plate). As loosely as it was on, I was surprised to need the puller at all but those tapers really tighten up with only little force so 200 ft-pounds really cinch it on!

Hph, see KPack’s project blog (page 64, post 633) for a file that covers many of the details of servicing the rear axle.

See: Re: KPack [Project Blogs] - Packard Motor Car Information (packardinfo.com)

Additions to the supplement that were identified during Kevin’s project were:

1. A note to lubricate the inner seal with gear oil, especially if a new seal is being installed.
2. A note to lubricate the outer seal with either gear oil or bearing grease, especially if a new seal is being installed.
3. A note on the addition of a series of center punch marks if a loose fit is encountered between the outer bearing race and the axle housing bore.

The pinion seal may be replaced in situ. The key element is returning the pinion bearing preload back to the level is was prior to the seal replacement, while is done by placing the pinion nut in the same position, relative to the pinion gear, at the conclusion of the procedure.

See: Re: 1953 Clipper Ultramatic pinion nut size [Post-War (1946-54)] - Packard Motor Car Information (packardinfo.com)

dp