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Brian is in made of fiber board? Or some other material?

A hard, slick fiberboard disc would probably work... maybe put some powdered graphite on it. A long, weak spring, like some wheel cylinders and master cylinders have, might help keep it down on the floor and laying flat. Put the spring over the rod between the pedal and the disc.

I installed the new window channel from Bob and it helped as it moved the window 1/16" closer towards the division bar. But still not enough. I'm now convinced its how either the glass was cut, or they used too thick of a setting channel. Here is how thick the channel is.




Can some measure how far their glass sticks out past the metal on top of the frame?

For my windows it's for sure different in each side. The passenger side windows sticks out more than the driver side does.

Based on that measurement I'll know how much to have the glass shop grind off.

Also, if you know, is the glass even with the metal guide loop.at the bottom?

I think I am going to go with 5/16" glass stick out. It was between that and 3/8". But I'd rather do tighter than looser since I need as much space at the rear as possible.

I went out and looked at mine and I cannot even see the glass protrude down in the channel even hitting it with a very bright light, I even tried to see if I could get a refraction shining the light into the side of the glass at the front to see if I could pick up the forward lip that way, so I have no way to measure it. I think 5/16" would be tons, I have a feeling mine is even less than that, it sure does not hit the back of the channel, the stainless trim rides right against it on both doors. But as we all know, my car is by no way original as I had to have all glass made. Maybe someone else has one apart they can throw a mic on to get an accurate measurement.
Bob J.

I have found the issue. The top front edge protrudes too much and is more on the passenger side than the driver's.

Here is the driver's side. Everything, including the silver Sharpie line to the edge, needs to be removed.




Here is the passenger side:




I marked the glass to leave a 5/16" stick out and have that even with the top leading edge of the bottom guide. I dropped the glass back off at the place that did them. He is going to fix them up and have them ready tomorrow for me.

Why I am waiting to get the windows back from the shop, I decided to take care of some housekeeping items on the doors while the glass is out and the door panels are removed.

There is damage on the drivers were there was a mirror installed and ripped off at one time. To the point that remnants of one of the screws was still in one of braces behind the door skin.




So I wire brushed the rust down to the metal and then leveled the metal the best I could. There are two holes and rips/cracks in the door skin.

So where I could I used a magnetic copper heat sink to weld up all the holes. The copper heat sinks helps to dissipate heat and prevent blow through from the MIG welder. Works a jiffy then welding up holes. I welded as much as I could from the inside out.




Then I finish welding some spots from the outside and then ground everything down.




Not perfect, but good enough for filler at a later time.

Also cleaned, wire brushed and painted various internal door fasteners that I didn't get to last time.




Also, got the gas pedal rod. Thanks Ben!

I got the windows back from the glass shop. They turned them around in less than 24 hours, so that's great. I'll see if I can get back in the car this evening and see if that resolves the fitment issue.

Does anyone have an old 120/115 header bow that could be used as a pattern? I'm not happy with how my header bow turned out, and I need an original to copy the dimensions from.

Or, at the very least, a tracing made from the flat backside (the side facing towards the rear of the car), which will give me the overall flat dimensions and elevation. I think the one I came up with is just not tall enough when compared to others I have seen.

In other news, I got the windows in, and it helped move everything forward. The glass frame now sits against the division bar window channel with no gap. I also moved the entire vent window assembly as far forward as I could, but I still needed to make a slight relief cut in the wood B-pillar at the very bottom to sink the channel in a little bit, as it was still making contact with the window frame in that corner.

I also remade the front carpet. I needed the carpet to go up higher on the firewall and also need to cut back some of the firewall pad I made up to give more gas pedal clearance. Luckily this carpet is fairly inexpensive.

I found these on Amazon. 2-1/2 OD 1/2 ID. Probably too big.

amzn.to/43Rq5a4

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