Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Good Morning,
The steering column shift levers are stuck out of alignment. I have disconnected the turnbuckles, removed the u-bolt holding the shift column to the steering column and pulled the cotter key from the bottom of the threaded shaft (spacer and spring came out). I cannot get the column shift levers to separate or move independently of each other. I think the "thing" that I took the u-bolt out of has to thread down the shaft to give me clearance to separate the levers but, I cannot get the shift column far enough away from the steering column to attempt to turn it. What am I missing here guys? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Alan

Lastly, I did read all the previous threads on the shift lever issues but, never actually saw anything about disassembling the bottom of the shaft where the levers mount. Thanks

One of the issues on the 41 Clipper thru 50 style linkage is lack of shifter lubrication in general and particularly of the upper 2-3 shift lever. I strongly suspect that aside from the shape of the levers, the conventional body cars may have a similar shifter construction and issue.

On Clippers there is an oil hole where by applying a few drops, oil will run down and hit the shift tongue and splines with a bit running out slots to catch the lower R-1 lever. The upper 2-3 lever has absolutely no lube provision and in addition catches any water and dirt that can condense and run down the tube to pool at the retaining clip and washer and then work its way behind the lever. Corrosion and rust seizing the upper lever to the tube is a frequent result.

To remove the Clipper shift assy the operator lever needs to be removed and also an anti-vibration wire spring pressing against a grooved piece inserted in the tube at the upper end of the steering column just below the wheel. Not sure if conventional bodies are exactly the same there but suspect similar and it does require a bit of work and disassembly to separate the shift assy from the column. I found it was easier to work on the shifter out of the car by removing column with shifter still attached.

Here are a some photos of a Clipper style linkage showing what I expect you will find. First shows rust and corrosion on the tube between the slot and retaining clip groove where the upper lever rotates. It took heat and brute force to remove seized lever from tube, second shows assy cleaned up, third is lube points, fourth is upper column and anti vibration spring.

Attach file:

---

  Clipper shift- dirty.jpeg (107.48 KB)


  Clipper shift tube.jpeg (195.89 KB)


  shift tube lube copy.jpg (199.13 KB)


  anti vibration spring.jpeg (267.42 KB)

*** TOP MOVED TO PRE-WAR FORUM ***

Thanks Howard, awesome info and photos! So, in theory, if I remove the c-clip from above the upper lever and slide the washers up, should I then be able to slide the lever itself up the shaft at all? I'm really trying to avoid pulling the column. Trying to get it drive-able again just to sell it. Sitting around in my barn with no attention is probably going to contribute to more issues like this. I think the thing between the levers in your disassembled photo is what's out of position in mine causing the lock up. I want to get the levers apart far enough to reposition that. I've already been underneath and worked all the shift rods and put the car in neutral so, my problem is just getting those two forks to operate together.
Thanks,
Alan

It all depends on whether or how badly the upper lever is already seized to the shaft. If you have the rod disconnected between the idler portion and upper lever have a helper pull the operator lever up toward the steering wheel as if going into first or reverse gear. As long as it is held up that will get the selector tongue out of the upper 2-3 lever so lever will then be completely free to rotate on the tube. With the operator lever being held or tied back and the upper retaining clip and washer removed reach down and try to turn the lever. If it moves then try and get a liberal dose of penetrating oil down in the space between lever and tube and work it until lever feels fairly free. Possibly it will free up enough you can slide it upward but depending on how much paint, crud, or any gouges that might be on the tube it may not want to go far. If it gets free follow up with a good dose of regular motor oil. I wish you success and some with not terribly seized levers have lucked out doing this freeing method with everything still in the car.

On my 47 I was not as fortunate and the upper lever was rusted so tightly it took penetrating fluid, heat, and some brute force to get it to break free. To apply the brute force I took the tube and lever assy off the column and removed everything needed to get the lower lever and selector tongue off. I then rested the threaded end of the tube on a block of wood and used a hammer and soft drift punch to alternately strike different places on the top of the lever to break it free. If you do this take care not to gouge anything. Took quite a few blows for the lever to budge followed by a lot of polishing to get the shaft in halfway decent shape.

I don't recall ever seeing a detailed description of the column shift assy when it was introduced in 39 but if you want to get an overall feel for the tube and shift assy construction and operation check out the 46-50 service manual, clutch and transmission section. Starting on page 45 is a photo and description of operation. I believe that except for a different idler assy and shapes of the levers plus maybe a couple of other parts that the detailed Clipper thru 50 tube and lever operation will be identical to that on the prewar conventional body cars. Other than slight variations in parts shapes Packard kept that same basic arrangement thru 54.

Quote:

The slider doesn't get out of position. It was apparently left parked in gear so that's the gear it's stuck in. It is supposed to slide up and down the shaft as you pull or push the shifter handle in order to engage in one or the other levers, then up and down on the handle moves the engaged lever up and down. As Howard pointed out, the rod in the column is likely rusted and that being the case, removing the column for a complete disassembly is the only way to get it apart for cleaning. Watch out for the little piece at the end of the spring or it will go flying! On one of my cars, I soaked in all sorts of oils and penetrants but in the end it was a waste of time as it had to come out.

My '41 (back in the 70's) would lock up the transmission when the inner moving "pawl" was in an out of tolerance position. On mine I had to replace both of the receivers as they were worn on their inner surface AND replaced the moving pawl as it was worn sufficiently to stack up all the tolerances and allow the transmission sliders to move into its intermediate locked up position.

At the time Packard Farm (now Merritt) had NOS parts. Trust me...locking up at stop lights on busy streets was very frustrating as I had to get out, open the hood and jiggle it back to normal with a screwdriver...once I replaced those parts, it was smooth as silk and never locked up again.

I recommend disassembly and replacing the parts if you can get NOS ones.

My 2.125 cents.

Thanks Guys - Got it freed up, cleaned up and putting back together now. I appreciate y'all.

Alan