Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

B-Pillars are finally sorted, and the weatherstrip was installed:

The seating position in my car has always been a challenge. As in, I don't understand how shorter folks could have driven it in the past. It could be a combination of altered '38 split business coupe seats in the car paired with the original '37 seat tracks. Also, it has a lot of recline, so I can't even see the fenders while driving, and I'm 6'4". However, some of the Service Counselors/Letters have noted several instances of adjusting the seat height and position using a wooden spacer wedge.

So, I made 1" hardwood spacer blocks under the rear of the tracks. This dramatically changed the recline angle to something way more standard/comfortable. But this left a large gap between the back of the seat and the plywood package shelf and bulkhead when the seat was all the way back. So, I moved the tracks back several inches and drilled new holes through the floor. The existing holes were not original as the floor was replaced in the recent past, and when it was done, someone used the woodworking threaded inserts into the wood floor to accept the seat track bolts. I used longer bolts, which were needed anyway in the rear due to the spacer blocks, and went all the way through the floor. Then I could use large, thick grade 8 fender washers on the underside, which, to me, is infinitely better than those aluminum threaded inserts.

Now, I have more legroom and can see the fenders while driving. My wife no longer has to sit on a pile of pillows to see over the dash while driving.

My original top header bow on the back side, facing the rear of the car in the center of the bow is approx. 2-1/2 inches wide. The length of the bow is approx. 49-1/2 inches, I could be off a little on the length as a piece at the end is broken off.

Attach file:

---

  fc927292-c113-4358-ac9d-28dbc72c39f0.jpg (2,247.48 KB)

Thanks, that is helpful!

Well, this maybe a long shot, but I am looking for this part:




It is referred to as a Dove Tail (Female) and is unique to many of the front doors on convertibles from 1936 to 1941. They are the same, left or right. The one in my passenger door has a broken retainer tab, which was a simple bent-over tab in the metal shell. With that broken, the upper "jaw" falls too far down, and the corresponding triangle doo dad (Dove Tail - Male) on the door slams into it, preventing the door from closing. I've removed the triangle for now to allow the door to close, but I'd like to find a replacement before I try to jury-rig a fix on an already brittle part.

Here are the models this part fits:




If you happen to have one available, please let me know.

Thanks!

1948-1952 Ford pickups used a very similar item to the same purpose. They riveted it to the inside of the flat door post, but the part itself may be adaptable. I think Ford vehicles used that type of thing from the late 30's up to 1949. The passenger models may be mounted like the Packard.

I was able to move my seat back against the package tray, but that's still not enough. I'd like to move it back another 2" or a little more. The seat cushion is too high to suit me, and the seat is too close to the dash.

Quote:

There are several Service Letters and Counselors addressing making changes to seat positions.

I went back and looked at my notes for my seat. The seat is actually from a 1940 110 Business Coupe, so the frame was modified to fit into the '37. I think the seat tracks are from the '37.

But the seat reclined way too much and was too low in the back of the bottom cushion. So, I changed the seat angle by putting a 1" spacer block between the rear mount on the track and the floor, which dramatically helped the recline and the height issues. But, this left a gap between the seat and the package tray, so I moved everything back, which was perfect for me.

For you, I think there are a couple of options:

1) In the Service Letters, they describe drilling the rivets out of the part of the seat tracks and drilling new holes for the rivets to make the seat tracks shorter.

2) Depending on how much extra room you have on the package tray forward of the header bow when it folds back there, you may be able to shorten the package tray and move the plywood bulkhead back a couple of inches, and then move the seat/tracks back as well. But I am sure that's not a simple endeavor as that affects the rumble seat side panels and everything in that area. I only have about 2" from behind the seat to the header bow. So, I'm not sure how original my package tray size is, as I am sure it was altered and replaced before I got the car.

From back to front at the center, my package shelf is 17 1/2" . The cushion and backrest angles seem to be typical. I don't think I could lean the seat assembly forward enough to move the whole thing back much. I haven't had the top down to see how much room it would need behind the seat. The seat tracks look like new, but are stuck. I'm pretty sure they're stuck all the way back.

The tracks can be taken apart and the needle bearings inside the rollers can be lubed. Also good to clean any dirt and grit out of them.

Now on my seat, the upholstered metal side panels that screw to the floor and the B-Pillar caused my seat to jam when in the full back position. After I removed the panels, the seat slides back and forth just fine.

In addition to my seat being an altered one from a later model, my seat was overstuffed at some point, probably to deal with the sagging. So both of those probably contribute to the binding.

So I'll need to figure out a solution to that. But that may be something to check. Also verify that seat adjuster handle is actually disengaging the track lock. Is you seat track helper spring still there?