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How old is your battery? Getting a drop of 0.2V with just a fuel pump on is crazy. For comparison, a voltage drop of 1.8V is typical with a load of 200 amps. Of course, there could be some measurement error. Does your voltmeter read to one decimal place, or two? Usually it's two if you set it to the "20V" setting.

Ok did it again..battery is drained again but standing battery 6.11 when turn key over 6.05

"at a high idle both the regulator and battery test at 7.0 to 7.2 volts they appear to be testing the same amount of......"

So it is obviously charging. No further questions your honor.

But your battery goes dead after long periods of slow idle or if you let the car sit-- is that correct? And you get a spark when you connect the battery? You have to find out what is draining your battery. There should be no spark or only a wee little tiny one for lighting up the dome light. The car should be able to idle for HOURS even without the gen working. The gen and reg are obviously doing their job.

Something has a short. If you have a clock, disconnect it. They are notorious for having sticking winding points and blowing fuses which then people bypass. I'd go around and feel all the wiring and see if anything feel warm/hot.

Ok thank you I just got home and will start trying to see what’s draining g the battery..the battery is new…I thought it may be the generator as the voltage only goes up one volt when grounding the field..I read it should jump higher than that….I pulled the fuse on the clock awhile ago but it is still wired …it blew a fuse when I originally wired it and the wire to it was taped off prior so it clearly had a short…I thought I should be good by pulling the fuse..I’ll check again.. what exactly is a short? Like bare wire somewhere making contact with something… and yes the longer it idles the more it drains battery

Went out and did short test using test bulb in between the battery cable and battery. the light did illuminate but then goes off when pressing in the dome light button in door jamb so according to that particular test no short is observed..I have no idea of the validity of the test but read it on line to find a short innolder vehicle…try again tomorrow

A short is when a wire is touching ground. It need not be a full short which would likely cause burned fuses, smoke or even fire but something is grounding out and drawing too much current. A light bulb is not a good test for a short but rather is a test for the light bulb itself. That said, it sounds like a bad battery to me so maybe take it to a local shop and have them run a load test on it. To do so, they may want to keep it overnight.

You could have a battery with what is essentially an internal short.

I'd used a battery load tester.

Jimmy, how old is your battery actually? Is it NEW or are you still using the one in the car when you bought it?

An old battery can start an engine when charged, but then not run said engine for very long without being continuously charged. Ask me how I know...

Battery drain test: you already said the clock is disconnected. Good. Close the doors so the dome light is off and make sure the ignition/accessories are off. When it's dark, disconnect and reconnect one of the battery terminals. You should not see/hear ANY spark. If there's a spark, you have some phantom drain.

If you have a trunk light, have you checked that it's not stuck on? That's about all I can think of that wouldn't be caused by mis-wiring or a short somewhere.

My sister had a car that she barely used. It went from bad battery, to bad alternator, to bad battery, to bad alternator. Over the course of about two years.

Finally I said drive the car regularly, sell it or leave it on a battery tender.

Charging a bad/dead battery puts a lot of stain on a charging system. Do that enough times and eventually something gives up.

Then you replace the battery and wonder why it won't charge cause now the charging system is now bad. So now the new battery gets drained to nothing. Which starts to damage the battery. Rinse and repeat.