Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Todd

I went through this several years ago with a a 160 that I no longer own. You need to jack the right side of the car up, take off the wheel and remove the access panel in the wheel well. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the yoke holding up the engine at the front. Probably easier to do this with a socket and many extensions from the top before you jack the car up.


If you still can't jack the engine up, the clamp holding the exhaust down pipe towards the bottom to the engine ( or clutch/transmission housing, I don't remember which, ) is the culprit. Take the nuts off and remove the u shaped piece off and you can jack the engine up as high as you need.

It took me numerous session underneath the car the figure this out. I had loosened the side motor stabilizers and a bunch of other stuff by this time.


I have levered a new belt on the crankshaft pulley. Drape it around the generator and water pump from the top after loosening the generator and pushing it towards the block. On the right side, I levered it on with one of Owen Dyneto's tomato stakes, after smearing some chassis grease on it to help it slide over the pulley.

John

Been so long, that is why I see only two with copper, and the other two lock washer. Will check napa. Are these squissable, donut shaped, or just flat. If just flat I might have several?

Already have the bottom and side panels off, and the side water pump hose off. So just need to figure how to loosen those two bolts. With all of that out of the way, may be able to replace the two front rubber engine mounts?

Todd

The two bolts that go into the water jacket need to be sealed or you will be doing the job over again soon. I always use the Indian Head shellac for these jobs. It is inexpensive and doesn't cause problems like some of the modern stuff. The brass washers for those two bolts can be found in the plumbing section of a well equipped hardware store.

You want to replace the front rubber engine mounts, the ones on the car will be "perished" as they say in the UK. Your car will have side engine mounts also , which Packed called stabilizers. Do those, too. Kanter has repros, probably also Merritt. They are rubber vulcanized on steel affairs.

My garage is a rental unit where my apartment is. Barely larger than my car, it also has no electricity . This Job took me a number of weeks working on and off because of finding things out the hard way and the garage is a chore to work in .

My car was a 41 160, which is much more inaccessible. I decided the only correct way to do this is to find a couple of leprechauns who owned the scaffolding and pulley arrangement like they use to wash the windows on sky scrapers. I gather they went back home when the economy got better there, they weren't lining up at my door.

Best

John

Copper washers also available at Harbor Freight

Often the machined recess on the pump body for the copper washer to nest into is rather crudely done, so don't rely entirely on the soft copper washers for a water-tight seal, also use a hardening gasket cement (shellac or the hardening versions of Permatex) on the threads of those bolts that go into the coolant jacket. I don't advise using the non-hardening types of gasket sealant.

To make fitting the fan much easier on reassembly, make a short threaded stud and install with just light finger pressure thru the pulley into the hub with about 3/4 inch protruding. You can then just hang the fan on that and the other 3 bolt holes will then be aligned. Then of course remove the stud and install the 4th bolt.