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Don,
Thank you for your appreciative words about my work. It always gives me motivation for the remaining work on assembling the “Sport” and the work on the interior that still lies ahead of me. I hope to get the chrome-stript and newly nickel-plated snap rings, the rim retaining rings and the bolts back this week. Then I have to find a way to pull the snap rings onto the rims without damaging the paint.

Karl

A little update on the silencer... because the electroplating company didn't meet its deadline again... this time the excuse was... that the most important employee is on vacation for 5 weeks and the other one called in sick right today ... so I have to keep waiting and others prefer to work. I sandblasted the end covers and muffler brackets. .... by the way, .. the holders do not belong to the 136 Sport, these holders belong to the 236. The holders are therefore different, but can be easily adapted to the existing frame parts. I turned out the groove inside of the cover on the lathe. They now fit perfectly on the muffler housing tube. The gray cast iron lids have deep rust spots on the outside. For the sake of “visual correctness” I filled it with “Lab-Metal”. For the same reason I also rolled the 4 beads into the outer tube. This was not structurally necessary as the pipe is 2mm thick and therefore very stable. Back then, the beads were used to support the really thin sheet metal of the original muffle. More information about this when I compile the data for construction and renovation and post it here. Why do I pay so much attention to the purely visual work on a silencer....??? ... well, I want the visitors to the car shows and the judges who are always among the cars... to be satisfied and happy.

Karl

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The snap rings and the retaining rings for the wheels are back. The chrome is striped and the nickel looks very good. Exept the bolts. These looks really bad after dechroming because they have had too much pressure on the edges. Does anyone know if the special bolts with this high nuts can be purchased as reproductions for these rims with the retaining rings ???
The dimensions are: 9/16 x 18 / length is 1.5"

Karl

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I'd check first with Bruce Blevins in Michigan. If he doesn't already offer them, he certainly has the expertise and equipment to make them.

Thanks for the tip Dave, I found the bolts in Bruce Blevins online catalog.

Karl

Here are the last parts that still need to be painted in the body color. The door
hinges are sandblasted, primed and pre-treated with filler before top painting.
The carriage bolts hold the corners of the rear bumper. The heads of the screws,
like the corners themselves, must be painted in the vehicle color. The reconstruction
and processing of all of these many small parts takes up a significant part of
the restoration time, which hardly anyone notices in the later depictions.

This effort is also a part of the answer after the long restoration time.
The front bumpers and the rear corners themselves are in the paint shop.

I'm now working on the tires to mount them on the rims. At the this time also
I'm working on the Exhaust/Muffler and the Pipes.

Karl

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Here are all the dimensions and information required to recreate the muffler for the Packard models 136-443.
Basically, the mufflers of all models from 136-443 are identical. Only the holders differ from model to model. Since I received the original holder for my muffler, I was able to assign it to the model 243, because only this model has this holder combination according to the spare parts list. (Parts No. 130601 and 132086). Since I want to use these original brackets on my sport, I will only determine the position of the mounting holes of these brackets after installing the engine/gearbox and re-determine them in the frame and crossbar.
Here are the dimensions of all components of the muffler that I determined from the original.
1. Outer Shell, Parts No. 127409: Length 653 mm, outer diameter 185 mm
2. Intermediate Shell, Parts No. 126628: Length 653 mm, outer diameter 120 mm
3. Inner Shell, Parts No. 124279: Length 653 mm, outer diameter 79 mm
The sheet thickness is 1.2 mm for the outer shell and ~1.0 mm for the two inner ones.
The diameter of the holes in the reflection/expansion areas of the two inner/intermediate shells is 4.5 mm.
I have marked the arrangement of the holes in 2 of the photos.

The height of the front and rear lids is 10 mm. The Outer Shell sits in the Lids in a groove that is 3 mm wide and 4.6 mm deep.
The exact position of the eccentrically arranged retaining rings for the intermediate and inner shells can be seen in the two drawings.
By the way, these are not construction drawings. They are just sketches whose dimensions are taken from the original components. For a replica that is intended to reproduce the desired original dimensions, function and original sound, these dimensions, which only differ by a maximum of one millimeter, should be absolutely sufficient. All dimensions are metric in mm. It should be easy to determine the inch dimensions from the mm dimensions. The bolt spacing for the flange at the rear exhaust outlet is measured at 77.5mm. In inches that should actually be 3 inches.
Basic information about the original muffler and my replica.
The outer shell of the original muffler was made of thin 1.2 mm sheet metal and stiffened by 4 beads. An insulation mat ~ 7mm thick was inserted inside, which was riveted to the inner wall with five 20mm metal strips. All of the muffler's panels were obviously made from flat sheet metal with holes punched into them. The sheets were then rolled in a rounding machine and joined together with a fold.
For my replica I used commercially available steel pipes, like those used here in furnace exhaust construction. The outer tube had... for whatever reason... an outside diameter of exactly 19.3 mm and therefore fit exactly into the existing groove of the original lids after I had turned the groove out of the lids on my lathe with a 3mm chisel. The wall thickness is 2mm, which promises good sound insulation and good sound at the same time. I lined the inner wall with a sound insulation mat from the exhaust accessories and secured it with a stainless steel grille. The back and front covers are pulled onto the outer tube using threaded rods and thus fixed there. In the original, the rods were inserted through the muffler and threaded freehand on the opposite side. I wanted to save myself this “exercise” and therefore inserted a 3mm thick ring on both sides that precisely defines the position of the threaded rods. I unscrewed the ring on the lathe so that it could be driven into the pipe with light taps. I also soldered the rings into the tube in several places with silver solder. The threaded rods (stainless steel) are fixed and the covers only need to be attached on both sides.
The intermediate tube had an outer diameter of exactly 120 mm, but did not fit completely into the existing web as it became thicker towards the bottom. So I cut a 20mm high ring from the pipe, fitted it into the web and then welded this ring back to the pipe. Since the pipe also had a wall thickness of 2mm, I was unable to “taper” the pipe on my beading machine. After determining the locations, I drilled the required 357 expansion/reflection holes.
In this particular case, I decided against using the sieve pipes used in exhaust construction, as these can only be supplied with a hole diameter of 4 mm and a maximum pipe diameter of 63.5 mm. It was easier to drill the holes than to cut the pipe, adjust the diameter, and work on the lapping machine and welding. I made the inner shell from an 80 mm stainless steel tube with a thickness of 1.5 mm. This tube also did not fit exactly into Lid's existing bridge. But here I was able to pull in the pipe ends on my beading machine. Since this 80 mm diameter pipe cannot be supplied as a sieve pipe, I drilled the required 154 holes myself.
By the way, the pipe that leads directly from the exhaust manifold into the muffler has a diameter of 2.25 inches. The pipe leading out of the muffler is only 2.0 inches in diameter. This leads to a “back pressure” in the silencer. This is intentional during the design and should be taken into account when replicating. If someone can explain the reflection processes to me in simple words, that would be too much.
This completes the work on the main silencer. The rear silencer is now missing, which is mounted directly behind the main silencer and is directly connected to the axle arch and the tailpipe. Since this is a simple absorption silencer and the dimensions were easy to determine using the parts list, I ordered a very precisely fitting 2" stainless steel silencer online. Visually it is very similar to the original, so I simply have to adapt it to the axle arch I still have to bend the pipe bend that leads from the exhaust manifold to the muffler because I couldn't find a company that wanted to bend the pipe for me.
If I had had to build the lids myself, I would have made the lids from a 10mm thick steel disk. In the lathe I would have first turned out the groove and then turned out the rest of the disc to a depth of 5mm. I would have made the bars into which the hoses have to be inserted from 3mm thick and 5mm high strips. They are fixed in position and soldered into the lid with silver solder. I would have determined the positions based on the images in the parts list after enlarging them accordingly.

Karl

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Wow! Just amazing! It's always fun and even exciting to see what you have accomplished and your craftsmanship is just amazing.

....can anyone give me information about adjusting the valve clearance and whether there are any special things to consider that affect my Series 1 engine (No.204 663)?
When is the play adjusted... when which positions on the flywheel are in accordance with the marking on the edge of the housing. Maybe there is already a chat on this topic that also affects my engine. I would like to make the settings before installation and do so in a cold state... even before the first start. I would be very grateful for information tailored to my English skills.

Karl

.... thank you Don !!!

Here is my report on how I completed the restoration on the wheels. The problem was how to pull the snap rings over the rims without damaging the paint on the edges. First of all, it had to be clarified which lever effect was required to get the rims over the edge all around. I assumed that suitable mounting levers would be required in any case. These levers should be as small and thin as possible in order to stretch the snap rings as little as possible so that the resulting pressure at the points where the snap ring will touch the edge of the rim is as low as possible. It was also clear that these areas of the rim edge where the mounting levers are attached had to be protected by direct lever/paint contact to avoid chipping. I found the corresponding thin levers and the mounting edge protection on the Internet. When it comes to assembly edge protection, different sizes and materials are offered. I initially ordered the yellow ones and therefore the wrong ones, which belong to the large aluminum rims. Only then did I find the blue ones that fit the narrow edges of my rims. These can be found in the area of motorcycle tire assembly. But it was also too wide for my purpose in the area that was supposed to be on the inside, so I cut it to size. To make a long description short…. I didn't need the assembly levers for the actual purpose. The snap rings on my wheels (33x5) were so flexible that I could push them over the edge with just the heels of my hands.

In order to protect the paint on the edges of the rims from the sharp edges of the snap rings, I first followed information from the Internet and masked the edge with paper tape to prevent the adhesive tape from peeling off the paint when it was removed.
This has happened to me in previous cases when I used strong tape and the paint didn't have perfect adhesion to the bottom layer of paint. More information on this later.
Anyway, the suggestion came from the internet…. As for the “paper masking tape”… not a good idea. The first attempt at assembly was on the spare wheel rim. I also first masked the edge of the rim with painter's tape and placed it directly on the edge and let ~ 5mm protrude below the edge. (That was a mistake, as it turned out). I then stuck the heavy adhesive tape on at the same place.
The tires have been carefully washed inside and out. I then rubbed talcum powder on the inside of the tires and tubes and installed them. Valves withdrawn with assembly tool.
When attaching the snap rings, I made sure that all rings started at the valve... and later that the center of the lettering on all tires was exactly above the valve.
As I said, it turned out that with relatively little pressure with the heel of my hand and at the same time applying pressure with the other hand to the area that will now touch the area of the rim edge, you can overpress the snap rings until it is completely and correctly seated .
Next, the protective tape had to be removed again. Now the mistake of sticking painter's tape up to 5mm below the edge became apparent. When the duct tape was removed, it sheared off the paper tape right along the edge. So the paper tape remained stuck 4-5 mm below the edge. It was a crazy fumble to get it out there again. Because the pressure of the rings was so high even without air pressure on the tires that it was very difficult to get under/behind the edge. This realization led to the next rims only being covered with Tuct Tape, which then led to the desired result without any problems. However, now... when the duct tape was removed... Then the purchased assembly levers and the blue assembly protection were used. These are used to push the snap rings down far enough from the edge of the rim in order to remove the adhesive tape from the edges.
---Now an important note!!!!! --- The adhesive tape MUST be removed 180° against its adhesive direction, ... (Image No. .....580) ... otherwise there is a risk that the paint that does not adhere perfectly will tear off the rim when it is removed. It is easier to remove the adhesive tape if you warm it slightly with a hairdryer beforehand.
Next, I inflated the tires to about 15 PSI. I could see how the snap rings were already in the intended position. But they didn't do that in all areas. You can see this very clearly in the unequal distances between the edge of the rim and the edges of the snap ring. At this air pressure you can tap the snap rings into their intended position using a suitable tool.

After working on the wheels, I covered all the wheels with thin cardboard. During the long period of work that follows, it always happens that something comes into contact with the finished rims and damages the paint work. And I don't have time to worry about such rework anymore

Karl

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