Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Water or other coolant will expand considerably at operating temperature and return to its original volume when it cools. A freshly filled cooling system may contain some trapped air. Air dissolved in the water will be expelled when the water is heated, which might reduce volume slightly. The engine should have a thermostat installed and should reach full operating temperature for 20 minutes or more. Ideally, it would have some load applied. It is normal for some moisture to be expelled at the exhaust. Burning one gallon of gasoline yields just over three gallons of water, most of which will be expelled at the exhaust as steam. Some of it will reach the crankcase. Getting the engine up to operating temperature for 20 minutes or so will remove it.

I would run the engine through 6 or more warm up and cool down cycles, and retorque the head in the process, following proper procedure. It's best to run the engine at various speeds and loads for an hour per cycle. This helps seat rings and will avoid water condensation collecting in the crankcase.

To sum up, I would watch for water in the oil pan, and observe the coolant level over several run cycles without adding any coolant.

I agree with TxGoat, and I know I'm preaching to the choir here, but be extra extra sure you don't have water in your oil again. I would loosen the drain plug to see if any water is present in the pan. If there doesn't appear to be any oil, then I would proceed like TxGoat suggested.

If you start it back up again I would pull the dip stick after it's run for a minute to make sure your oil is clear and not foamy.

In the service manual Packard suggests running a new/rebuilt engine at higher rpms to make sure the rings get adequate lubrication.

I dont know if my last post went threw or not. But ran the engine yesterday and let it set drained the oil and let it left the water in the radiator. When I checked the oil later saw no sign of water in the oil. I did the same thing today and again let it set with the water in the system. Had to leave for 5 hours and just got back home I just loosened the oil pan drain plug and saw no water at this time.

Today had removed the 160 degree thermostat and installed the 180 so I could get the engine hotter. I ran the engine for 40 minutes at different speeds no load "still on my test not in the car." I also have a big floor in front of the radiator so the engine dont get to hot. I check the temp with a gun and never saw anything above 185 degrees. After I shut it down retorqued the head per the Packard service manual , some turned 1/8 to about 1/4 of a turn. When I rechecked them their was very movement if any at all.

I will drain the oil in the morning and hope to find no water in my pan. Then I will check the water level in the radiator and hope it did not lose any or very little. Their were very few fumes from the breather on the oil fill when running ,their were more fumes from the crankcase rear valve cover opening. I believe their were more at idle then at higher engine speeds if I remember correctly. Hope if its still losing water it not as much and not getting into the oil. I will try to do an update later tomorrow. "Thanks to all "

Great news!!! Sounds like you are good to go!

Some "smoke" from the crankcase breather is normal, especially with a newly built engine. With the engine running, more visible fumes will usually be present at the road draft pipe at the rear of the engine, and when the engine is stopped, more will usually appear at the oil fill/breather. When the rings fully seat, it will probably diminish somewhat, but some visible crankcase vapor when the engine is running and for a while after it is stopped is normal.

Just wanted to do an update for now. The last 3 days I did they same engine running as for time and speeds and the next morning checked the water level in the radiator. It stopped going down and stayed at 1 5/8 inches below the radiator cap seal also had no water in the oil when checking the drain plug.

At this time I have decided to put the engine back in the car so I can drive it and put it under load. This will take me a while to do and get everything back on the engine so it will run and drive. Again Thanks to everyone for all your help. Hope my next update will have good news with no water loss.

That coolant level may be normal. Due to thermal expansion, radiators cannot be kept brim full unless you add an "overflow reservoir" to the system. They were not original equipment and are not necessary.

I finally got the engine back in the car and filled with water 1.5 inches below the radiator cap seal . I drove the car for 1 hour never saw much smoke / blowby oil pressure and water temp looked the same as before. Then let it set over night just like I had before when I checked the water level the next morning it was down 5/8 of a inch. Jacked it up and drained the oil saw some water in it when it first came out . Let the oil set overnight then poured it into a different clean pan and saw water drops in the bottom of the pan.

Not sure what I am going to do at this point if I tear it down and look for a different block or engine. If I go with a different engine is a 1948 to 1954 correct for a 288. Machine shop Dave wants me to try and find a dye I can put in the water and run in the car and would show a leak when it gets in the oil. I checked with my guy at NAPA thats been their for several years and he does not know of anything like that. Any thoughts as what to do next?

I would let the drained oil set overnight to let water settle out, and leave the oil pan plug out with a pan under it to catch any water drips. I would not add any water to the radiator unless it is below the tubes. Next day, carefully pour the oil off into a clean container, avoiding getting any water into the clean container. Put the oil back in the engine, **recheck cylinder head torque**, then go for another drive of an hour or two. Two hours is better, to be sure of cooking any residual water out of the oil. Be sure the engine is reaching full operating temperature of 170F or higher. 180+ is better. Of course, keep an eye on temperature, and make a stop or two after an hour of driving to pull the dipstick and check for any evidence of water. You may have a "sneaky" crack in the block, or you could have such a crack in the head, or some kind of issue with the head gasket, gasket surfaces, or head studs allowing a leak. Also be sure that the oil filler cap filter media is clean, and be sure the road draft tube is properly installed and fully clear of any kind of obstruction. The crankcase ventilation system must work properly to keep moisture from accumulating in the crankcase, and the engine needs to spend time at operating temperature on the road to eliminate moisture from the crankcase. If you still have water issues, I'd look VERY carefully at the head and the gasket surfaces and head studs/threads, etc, before condemning the block.