Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

I was able to get the rear cap loose by blunt force with a dead blow hammer. With the help of a friend we got the crankshaft and torque converter out.

To get to the underside of the engine I first had to flip it on the stand. The engine is heavy enough to not be able to flip it by hand, so I used my 2-post lift to aid in the endeavor. Using the arms as a beam, some chain, and some grade 8 bolts and washers, I used the lift to tilt the engine up and control the spin to the other side. I documented the process in the video below. With a cherry picker this would be doable but also more dangerous and uncontrollable.


I'm not totally sure what equals a good bearing versus a bad one. They are all clean, shiny, and no real grooves noted. Here's the front main and 1st rod bearing.



Rear main and #8 rod



Inside the rod caps all look like this:



What I initially thought was rust on the crank and various surfaces turned out to be some sort of discolored sludge. It wipes right off. There are definitely some spots of rust though. The rods for sure have some.






Once I had the engine flipped and the crank out, I was able to get the pistons out without much trouble. But like an idiot I assumed I could drive them into the engine, but turns out the piston skirt contacts the flange of the main bearings. I realized that too late and ended up breaking the edge of #1 piston skirt.



So I drove them all out the other way without issue. A few were very stuck and took a good beating with the dead blow on some wood to persuade them. Only one piston (#2) had broken rings.






The cylinders didn't look scored, at least at first glance. I just quickly wiped them with a paper towel. Surface rust in the upper portions of those that were exposed. Once I get it all broken down I'll see what a machine shop thinks.

Generally as long as you can still see babbitt on the bearing you can throw it back in. For most engines people never reuse bearings or even pistons in a rebuild (see the V8 bearings thread recently) but in Packard world people reuse what they can, as you know.

Use Scotchbrite and brake cleaner to clean the crank surface and the bearing shells. Make sure the mating surfaces for the boss are clean. Repeat for the other 4 bearings. Set the plastigage in place. Install the other bearing shells and progressively torque tighten the bolts to spec. Remove the bolts and half the bearing shells. Use the plastigage package to read the value.

Max is .003.

By the way I hope you are keeping track of what came from where. The connecting rods and bearing bosses should be labeled, but everything else won't be. You will want to reinstall the bearings the same way they originally were if you are reusing them, etc.

When are you taking apart the converter? 😁

Sludge and rust are evidence of lack of timely oil changes and perhaps use of poor quality oil. Severe service, especially short trip service, like the "little old lady who only drove the car two blocks to church", will also cause heavy sludging and magnify the effects of running dirty oil. I would not re-use any insert bearings or cam bearings. The picture shows a broken ring, indicating severe abuse or very advanced wear or damage done when removing the piston. I'd replace all 8 pistons and rings. The condition of the crankshaft can be determined by inspection and micrometer measurements. All main and rod bearing caps need to go back exactly as they were. Valve lifters need to go back in the same location as before. The same goes for used pistons and valves, should you choose to re-use any of them. Cylinders will need ridges removed and a hone job, if not rebored. It's best to remove any ridge at the top of the cylinders before attempting to remove the pistons or damage is likely to result due to the rings catching on the ridge. The water distribution tube is another critical part that must be in good condition to get good results.

Connecting rod journals can wear out-of-round, resulting in a "flat" crankshaft. It's important to measure the rod journals both for overall wear AND for out-of round.

Thanks both of you. Everything removed is labeled and kept together, apart from the rod bolts and nuts. Pretty sure it doesn't matter where those go.

There were no detectable ridges in any of the cylinders, so I didn't feel the need to address that. I believe that one ring was already broken, but not sure. All the pistons have significant scoring/wear on the sides of the skirts. Not sure how normal that is.

I'm going to remove the torque converter either today or tomorrow. Anything in particular that I should know about that process? I'll need to order some plastigauge and learn how to use it. How do I check for out of round?

Last night I attempted removal of the valves. The compressor I'm using is one of the small screw types. It compresses the springs easily but the spring seat is not lifting up off the keepers. I was able to get the keepers off a couple of valves but the valves are stuck fast and sitting all the way closed. Any tricks I can use to remove them?