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Crud in the block is normal, especially if the car sat with the cooling system empty, but not flushed clean. Any acid type rust sauce will only work well on oil-free surfaces. All oil would need to be removed.

Why did you want to take the studs out? As for a home-build, that’s what I always do too but I do have any outside work done where it can get done better and more efficiently such as tanking the block. Of course, you’ll need to remove the cam bearings and distribution tube first but I can’t think of a reason why the studs need to be removed. They use very tight tolerance rolled threads where they go into the block so at best they’re tight. I have a stud removal tool but it does mess up the studs a little and they are over $5 ea to replace with new so best to leave them alone.

If you don’t mind my two-cents worth, here’s what I would do and is more or less what I what I will be doing on the 1951 Henney-Packard.

Strip down the block of anything removable including the coolant and distribution tube and take the block to the shop for tanking. First thing to do is to have them Magniflux it for cracks before putting any more time or money into it, then if crack-free, have them remove the cam bearings, tank it then reinstall new ones to match your cam. You would have to do that anyway and even as a seasoned mechanic, I prefer to have that done rather than to do it myself. They can probably help with the stuck valves too far easier than you or I can as they have the equipment and tanking alone may do the trick. They can polish the cam if needed but otherwise they can assure of a good fit even if worn as long as the lobes are good. If the lobes are not good, this is the time to know and get it fixed by regrinding the cam.

When reassembling, use a new timing chain and inspect the gears, replacing if needed. I have never had to replace timing gears but I imagine there are times when they are worn excessively so must be replaced.


On your engine, you will be far better off replacing all the valves considering their condition and have them replace the valve guides, lap or grind the valve seats and lightly hone the cylinders. That way they can give a report of whether to not you can get by without boring them. You should probably replace the wrist pins in the pistons even if using the old pistons and, of course, new rings.

I know this sounds like a lot but these things must be done to assure a good-running and quiet engine when completed!

Don, thanks for the tips. I just assumed that the machine shop would require everything to be off the block, including the studs. If I don't have to remove them I'll be happy. I'm not planning having the block decked or anything like that. I didn't want to remove and replace the cam bearings, but if they do that for not much money then I'll go ahead and let them do it.

I'd like to hone the bores myself and polish the crankshaft myself. Unless it's dirt cheap for them to do it. I'd like to get the experience of doing those things. I plan on pulling the engine in my Panama next winter and rebuilding much of it. Rusty's engine will be good practice for that. I plan on using a micrometer on the crank to check the journals, and a bore gauge for the bore to check for roundness and taper. Again, experience I'd like to gain if possible.

I'll give the valves a bit more of a try to see if I can get the last ones out. If I can't then I'll talk to the shop and see what it looks like for them to do it.

Overall I'm not looking for a full rebuild with all new everything. More of a budget build and a platform for learning. I will for sure get a new timing chain, possibly new valves, for sure at least one new piston, maybe new rod and crank bearings? Not sure what exactly I need.

I'm not even sure Rusty will ever get floors and rockers, so no idea if this engine has a car to go in when it's done.

Rule of thumb: never assume anything. Ask the shop to be sure.

It’s understandable the desire to save money but if your goal is for a running engine, there are some corners to not cut and some things better done by professionals.

You don’t have much choice on the cam bearings no matter the cost as the tanking acids will likely ruin them. The acids will definitely destroy the thin coolant distribution tube so remove it carefully, inspect it for damage, them put it aside in a very safe place as it’s easily damaged when out of the engine.

As for miking the journals, be very careful as most good micrometers have carbide faces which can easily nick the journal surfaces. In any event, once you determine whether or not they’re round and not tapered in any way, you’ll need PlastiGauge to determine the wear on the bearings if you’re not planning on replacing them. Otherwise it’s good and relatively inexpensive insurance to put in new ones.

On polishing the cam yourself, even I as a journeyman machinist would never consider doing that as there is more to it than just making them shiny. Honing the cylinders yourself is another matter but you’ll need a good three-stone hone, a dial indicator bore gauge to check the entire bore for roundness, taper and, of course, exact size and that tool can be expensive. Shops already have it.