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Trunk light 416392 repair
#1
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Pgh Ultramatic
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Has anyone disassembled one of these? It needs a new wire.

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jpg  Screenshot_20250119_143111.jpg (1,109.27 KB)
225076_678d5342457d7.jpg 1440X1569 px

Posted on: Today 14:32
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Re: Trunk light 416392 repair
#2
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Bob J
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You may be able to repair it. I know mine is pre-war but I expect the process is the same.
You should be able to get the assembly apart by getting the insulator disc to clear the bore of the housing. Then push the wire and the soldered endcap free of the assembly
Click to see original Image in a new window

Carefully heat the tip and remove the cap from the wire. You may find using a wire brush helps clean it up and allows the heat to flow to the solder bulb better.
While the cap is off polish up the bore of the housing to ensure a good grounding surface for the bulbs outer shank.
Dispose of the old wire and reassemble the insulator cap and spring and housing onto the new wire and place the cap on it. Again, you may have to run a drill bit into the caps bore to ensure a nice snug fit on the wire's stripped end. (Try and strip the wire just enough to have the wire's end match the caps top surface.
Solder the cap on leaving a dome of solder to act as a contact pad for the lamp.
Click to see original Image in a new window

Push everything back into the housing and celebrate with the beverage of your choice!
Click to see original Image in a new window

Have fun!
Bob J.

Posted on: Today 15:28
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Re: Trunk light 416392 repair
#3
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HH56
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Getting the cap off is the hard part. Heat may help expand it if you can keep the heat mostly confined to the cap so it expands more than the can. Once it loosens a tiny bit then gentle taps with a light hammer and punch all around the edges might persuade it off. Older Mercury switches had a glass capsule containing the mercury and contacts inside the can but if it is off your 55 it probably has a steel ball inside.

If the mercury type and it has deposited some kind of oxidation on the contacts there is not much that can be done to fix those. Steel balls rust and others say a good cleaning by vigorous shaking to knock the rust off usually works for awhile. Not had one of those apart to know if the ball is just loose in the chamber or it they have a capsule as well.

Here are photos Jeff took of a 48-50 mercury type. I think the electrical part is essentially the same as the later items with the main difference being that the earlier unit has the round housing for mounting to the lid while later cars just used the screws thru the tab.

Click to see original Image in a new window


My 47 had the mercury type and I was able to fabricate a plate to mount and mostly hide an external burglar alarm mercury tilt switch to take the place of the non conducting capsule. Made a plastic spacer to take up the space the capsule formerly occupied and used that to move and hold the wire contact directly to where the bulb end contact could touch it.

Click to see original Image in a new window

Posted on: Today 16:22
Howard
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