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The picture in post 417 was my starting point before I adjusted things. Those two bolts with the lock nuts were the First thing I corrected.
I may try and push the whole rear window 1/8 inch rearwards, or the front window a scooch forwards to allow the front edge of the rear window to be more vertical when rolled up.

Last week was great weather here in Germany, so I finished the windows and was able to drive to work on Friday. On the way home I have a pretty long uphill section which is about 1 mile after starting the car. Ambient temps were in the 60s, and so things were already kind of warmed up, but not totally warmed up. While going uphill, I was losing power and getting a miss....when the car was warmed up, it was better, but not completely gone. Accelerating up through the gears hard on the gas on a flat surface was OK, but getting far into the gas pedal while trying to go up hill was resulting in hesitation and loss of power....
Granted, this is the beginning of the season, and the Gas is a few months old, but I was not happy about the performance... Not sure what it could be or what to check. I will go over the ignition system to make sure I don't see any problems there. It could be choke adjustment, or the fuel pump not keeping up with the fuel demand when going uphill?
Fuel tank is new, fuel pump is also rebuilt a few years ago, Carb was rebuilt by Daytona, I went through the ignition system once, but that was two years ago. Could be the old "fuel cap not vented properly" trick?
Driving at light throttle when the family was on board was ok. When driving alone, and I start to use the four barrel carb, that is when she was not giving me full power. Could be weak spark when the mixture gets rich at high load? Ignition system is points, rotor is non-resistor type, solid core packard wires, and Autolite A308 resistor plugs.....
This week is rainy, so it might be a few days before I am on the road again to test things. Any speculation and suggestions from our collective knowledge?

Forget all that... replace the gas in it and try again. Don't forget water can settle out of ethanol fuels making things even worse.

If again the same, then I would check timing/advance next. Full throttle at low speeds will advance principally by vacuum, but at high speeds centrifugally as well (as I'm sure you know).

Don't forget about the short rubber flex hose between the pump and steel fuel line. Original and older hoses are well known for this issue but even in hoses only a few years old, if there is any kind of twist or if the hose was subject to rough handling during a fuel pump service or has a sharp bend the internal lining in the hose bore can crack. If a chunk is loose enough the increased suction when a lot of fuel is needed can pull the loose bit out of position and partially clog the bore. Unless the chunk is large and is working like a hinge, reducing the gas need usually lets the lining return to position and all is well until the next large fuel demand.

Any other hoses such as those often used when adding electric fuel pumps can also act up in the same fashion. I don't know what gas is available in Germany but any Ethanol blends can also do a job on older hoses just like it does when destroying the older pump diaphragms.

A hot coil that is starting to break down can also exhibit symptoms like you describe but usually when those start to act up they don't recover until the coil cools down again. Still worth considering though as are older or hot condensers in the ignition circuit.

This evening I decided to take a look at the ignition points.....I rotated the engine by hand untill the points were open and they were barely opening. Looking at the spec, the point gap should be 0.016". My one quick check with a feeler gauge looked like it was .008 or less. it could even be .005.
I went through the distributor in october of 2022, and only about 2000 miles ago. That seems like not a long time for the point gap to close up.
I will take out the points and file them with a point file, then re-set the gap and adjust dwell and timing. I'll also apply some distributor grease to the 8 sided cam that opens the points...
2000 miles seems like a very short service interval for points. What can cause them to wear fast? I guess the rubbing block would have to be the main culprit right?

Oh, and we have a choice between 5% or 10% ethanol gas here in Germany. I use the 5%, and have not had any real problems with it.