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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#11
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Pgh Ultramatic
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Quote:

moodydavid16 wrote:
Quote:

Why not measure the area (diameter) of the plunger, and necessary compressed length for the spring, and the spring rate, to calculate the necessary pressure to open the relief port?

This is where my thinking was flawed; I was thinking the spring needed to have the same pushback as the set oil pressure; which would only be the case if the face of the piston had an area of 1 inch which it does not.


Not only that, but also assuming 1 inch of necessary spring travel.

If a 40 lb/in spring is against a piston with 1 sq in. area and said piston will relieve when the spring is compressed one inch, then the math works out easily. In this example the valve would regulate to 40 PSI.

Posted on: Today 5:19
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry
Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.)
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#12
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moodydavid16
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Quote:

53 Cavalier wrote:
I'm not an engine builder so can't speak to what the oil should/could look like when breaking in one of these engines. I believe it's perfectly normal to see some small particles. Do you have pictures of what you're seeing in the oil? Have you changed the oil to see if the oil stays clear after your initial few hours of running?


I have changed the oil 3 times the first two times was because I noticed it was being diluted with fueland wanted to flush all that out-fixed that issue- looked fine then just a little sooty.
Third time was because I noticed it was getting really dirty and had lots of metal. I kept a couple samples from that change, one from the filter area and one from what was drained from the sump. I can try and get a few pictures later today.
There is no large chunks; it’s all very fine matter, just a lot of it. I have a magnet on the outside of the canister. I noticed it has caught a lot of matter.

Posted on: Today 9:12
If you want something done right; you have to do it yourself

1948 Super Eight Touring Sedan
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#13
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53 Cavalier
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A bit unnerving for sure! Metallic paint can be nice, metalic oil not so much!

I find it a bit interesting that you didn't have so much metal and then you did. Was the fuel pump leaking into the crankcase? Maybe the first two times the engine just hadn't run long enough for the metal to show up? Fuel obviously not a good lubricant, maybe this is the cause your issue?

What all was part of your rebuild? (Thinking of the potential sources of your metal.)

Mains?
Rod Bearing?
Wrist Pin Bushings?
Rings?
Pistons?
Cylinders bored? Honed?
Camshaft bearings?

Other than the metal in your oil, does the engine seem to start and run fine?

Post some pics and I'll send them to a engine builder I know who is also a Packard guy. He'll be able to provide some insight I'm sure.

Seems to me there are two options at this point. 1. Run the engine more with a couple more changes and see if the metallic flakes begin to diminish. 2. Pull the pan and check the mains, rod bearings and have a look at the cylinder walls to see if anything looks suspect. It would seem to me that those would be the three areas that would generate any significant amount of metallic flake. Possibly coming from your oil pump I suppose if there is something tight there.

Posted on: Today 9:56
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#14
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moodydavid16
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Quote:

53 Cavalier wrote:
A bit unnerving for sure! Metallic paint can be nice, metalic oil not so much!

I find it a bit interesting that you didn't have so much metal and then you did. Was the fuel pump leaking into the crankcase? Maybe the first two times the engine just hadn't run long enough for the metal to show up? Fuel obviously not a good lubricant, maybe this is the cause your issue?

Im sure it just hadn’t been run enough to show up. I found and fixed that issue early on. Also those first two changes only had a few minutes of run time between in an effort to completely flush the system- they should be counted as one.
Quote:

What all was part of your rebuild? (Thinking of the potential sources of your metal.)

Mains?
Rod Bearing?
Wrist Pin Bushings?
Rings?
Pistons?
Cylinders bored? Honed?
Camshaft bearings?

Other than the metal in your oil, does the engine seem to start and run fine?

Bored and honed cylinders
Ground the crank to .010 over
New main and rod bearings both .010 over
Machined the big bore on the rods
New pistons, rings, and wristpins. wristpin bushings were well within spec so I left them, they may have been honed lightly can’t remember for certain.
Rebuilt the fuel/vaccum pump
Rebuilt oil pump
Surfaced head
Machined existing valve guides
New valves and springs
New cam bearings
New freeze plugs
Cut valve seats

Pretty much everything was either machined or replaced except for the cam and lifters.
All clearances were checked and compared to specs found in the service manual; if out of spec it was fixed
It seems to start and run just fine, a little noisy but that has something to do with the giant hole in my muffler
Quote:

Post some pics and I'll send them to a engine builder I know who is also a Packard guy. He'll be able to provide some insight I'm sure.

Picture of what exactly? The oil or engine parts?
Quote:

Seems to me there are two options at this point. 1. Run the engine more with a couple more changes and see if the metallic flakes begin to diminish. 2. Pull the pan and check the mains, rod bearings and have a look at the cylinder walls to see if anything looks suspect. It would seem to me that those would be the three areas that would generate any significant amount of metallic flake. Possibly coming from your oil pump I suppose if there is something tight there.

That is kind of my plan at this point. Ill run it for a while and go from there. If It doesn’t seem to be getting any better I will start taking it apart

Posted on: Today 12:39
If you want something done right; you have to do it yourself

1948 Super Eight Touring Sedan
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#15
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Packard Don
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I've rebuilt many Packard engines and engines of other makes as well and have never seen metal in the oil. It seems very odd to me.

Posted on: Today 13:27
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#16
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53 Cavalier
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Pictures of the oil, maybe filter a bit with a paper towel so we can see the "metal".

Posted on: Today 13:33
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Re: Oil pump valve spring pressure
#17
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Pgh Ultramatic
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Quote:

moodydavid16 wrote:
Bored and honed cylinders
Ground the crank to .010 over
New main and rod bearings both .010 over
Machined the big bore on the rods
New pistons, rings, and wristpins. wristpin bushings were well within spec so I left them, they may have been honed lightly can’t remember for certain.
Rebuilt the fuel/vaccum pump
Rebuilt oil pump
Surfaced head
Machined existing valve guides
New valves and springs
New cam bearings
New freeze plugs
Cut valve seats

Pretty much everything was either machined or replaced except for the cam and lifters.
All clearances were checked and compared to specs found in the service manual; if out of spec it was fixed
It seems to start and run just fine, a little noisy but that has something to do with the giant hole in my muffler


Let’s think about this logically.
- The rotary bearing surfaces are well protected by Babbitt and brass; you would see an obnoxious amount in the pan if any metal were getting damaged. Not to mention pretty much the only way this is possible is to somehow machine something wrong, use the wrong bearings, or whatever. This would be noticeable turning the engine over by hand before the rebuild is even done.
- Wear on valves is extremely unlikely; they would have to be such a tight fit as to cause other problems, such as no compression.
- Likewise you would probably probably have trouble spinning the oil pump by hand if clearances were too tight on it. I don’t believe parts needed selective fitment on those units.

Really these are your options, in order of likelihood:
- Normal wear from cylinder wall/ring break in process.
- Someone did not clean the honing dust out the cylinders resulting in an obnoxious amount of metal in the oil.
- Piston skirt clearance too tight causing excessive skirt wear.
- Wrist pin loose in piston causing poor alignment of piston to cylinder and wrist pin retainer scratching cylinder.

Post a photo of what you are seeing, what is of concern…
Where did you get new pistons and what installation tolerance did you use? Did you consult the manufacturer? Packard pistons were “pre expanded” using integral struts to reduce piston slap when cold (see service manual p. 3). Reproduction ones generally lack this and thus require a greater amount of diametral play when cold. Cf. (V8 pistons):packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... 8710&post_id=276032#forumpost276032

Posted on: Today 14:14
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry
Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.)
service@ultramatic.info
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