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OK...I posted an answer over on the AACA forum a few months back:forums.aaca.org/topic/79973-cleaning-wood-grain-dash/#findComment-2746351

Here is the text:

For Wood-grained painted metal surfaces:

Do NOT use ALCOHOL or alcohol-containing products.

Instead, use Simple Green concentrate on a soft light-color cloth (so you can observe the dirt, etc coming off). I've cleaned several mid-30's metal with woodgrained surfaces, lightly, to remove old grime, finger oils, dirt, etc with no damage to the surface. If you are cleaning it to touch it up, Simple Green is also the only cleaner (in my aerospace optics realm) that we ever found that actually REMOVES silicones that contaminate space optics; alcohols and other substances only smear silicones around and damage wood-graining and clear coats.

On the AACA posting, read down a few entries and I discuss lightly waxing on metal with painted woodgrain finish.


For Actual Wooden garnish moldings/trim:

Simple green (not too wet; wipe it and follow immediately with a dry cloth...don't puddle it or saturate the surface.
Also, Murphy's oil soap should be fine as noted. Most oil soaps for wood should be fine on home furniture (varnish) as well as original automotive moldings (varnish or clear lacquer) or on restored auto moldings (1960's and newer restorations likely used polyurethane or clear lacquer).

I usually just wipe mine with liquid wax using a microfiber towel... Main idea is to dust it off and protect the paint from the UV radiation

Oh, sorry, I actually mean one of those "liquid/quick/1-step" waxes that you just apply and never wipe:walmart.com/ip/Turtle-Wax-1-Step-Wax-and-Dry-26oz/16888957 I switched to these years ago, when I learned that you do not actually have to wipe them off. So, supposedly, you are getting the same shine and protection without the need to rub the old paint.
However, I also recently learned that the claimed UV protection might be questionable. Still little better then nothing, I suppose

Or was the above question actually addressed to DM37?

Hi Todd (Todd W. White), Dan M. (DM37) obviously speaks from his own experience and gives really helpful instructions.
My experience also comes from a '49er...albeit a Soviet one. If that doesn't deter you, read on.
To keep hand-painted wood grain pristine, the best way to remove dust without risking scratches is with a soft microfiber cloth or soft brush, such as those used for fine details. To clean, use a mild soap solution, such as a few drops of dye-free dish soap in warm water—not too harsh, as this could bleach the painted surface. Gently wiping with a damp cloth without scrubbing will protect the hand-painted details. A second pass with clean water will remove soap scum. After drying with a microfiber cloth, there will be no streaks or water spots. If the surface needs extra care, a non-abrasive interior cleaner such as Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer or Chemical Guys InnerClean will provide a fresh finish without damaging the delicate paint. These steps have helped ensure the wood grain remains in excellent condition and won't show signs of wear over time.
I had the rare fortune of being able to practice on a molding that was later no longer needed. I believe, it's recognizable in the photo.

In my various postings I intended to clean the surfaces first with the Simple green to remove grime, dust, dirt, kids chicken finger grease from 1964, etc.

Then AFTER cleaning I use a non-abrasive liquid wax (turtle wax) in a single coat. Wax on, wax off! No waiting; just light soft cloth and circular buffing motions. You can wax it once a year thereafter but clean it thoroughly this first time and lightly before each subsequent waxing because going straight to the wax just traps crud under it.