|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
 
|
So I dont have an issue with the fast idle screw still contacting the fast idle cam. So what other function of the choke could be adding to this problem? Besides the choke butterfly being partially closed or the fast idle cam still being engaged Im not entirely sure how the choke can contribute to this? or does the choke system function differently in some aspect that it would affect idle?
and this is only with the front carb. the rear carb throttle should remain closed. However, trying to close the throttle on the rear carb more after opening the throttle does not have any impact on the idle rpm like the front carb does. Will mentioned taking the front carb off for a closer inspection. Which I am going to do. So Ill see what happens. I understand your hesitation with my issue Packard Don. But whether or not this is contributing to my braking issue, it is still an issue that needs corrected. It may not be the soul issue with my brakes, but having a faster than intended idle speed is surely not helping. So if its not helping I should correct it and rule that factor out from my more than sub par braking.
Posted on: 6/23 14:57
|
|||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
Quote:
It may not be the soul issue with my brakes Your brakes have a soul? You must mean sole! (Just my little feeble attempt of humor.)
Posted on: 6/23 16:06
|
|||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
So I think I got the carbs done as best I can. Ross mentioned to resolder the linkage onto the throttle shaft, Ill try that but I got the idle down to 500 in gear.
Now when it comes to the brakes. I think the new shoes are just of a lining that was not meant for the over weight convertibles. Even going down the mountains here (with a stop sign at the bottom of course) with the car in neutral and pumping the brakes I still smell them and have fade at the bottom of the hill. I put the same shoes on the patrician and I will see if that has a similar issue.
Posted on: Today 15:58
|
|||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
Once I put soft linings on my 1952 Henney-Packard which weighs 6,200 lbs, no smell or brake fade so it sounds like something is very wrong with your system.
Posted on: Today 16:39
|
|||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
Quote:
Pull a front drum and check both the wear pattern and carefully measure the drum diameter. I suspect your drums are a bit shot and so the linings are barely touching which will give poor overall performance for both reasons.
Posted on: Today 17:01
|
|||
|
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
I have often noticed a strong odor from new brake shoes for the first few stops. New shoes need to be used gently for the first few dozen stops to give them time to wear in. Be sure your brakes are not adjusted too tight, and avoid hard stops or long downhill runs with a lot of braking until the shoes have time to seat. After some break-in, and after a few heat cycles, the odor will diminish. But do be sure the brakes are not dragging due to being adjusted too tight, or the parking brake not releasing fully, or any other cause.
As PGH noted above, the drums need to be in reasonably good condition. If they are oversize or irregularly worn, the new shoes will only partially contact the drum face, which will cause local overheating and may cause pulling and other problems.
Posted on: Today 17:01
|
|||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
Quote:
It could still be in the break in period. I only put about 60 miles on the car since I installed the brakes. Not going down long hills are not an option. I live on top of a hill and any direction is downhill. They are not adjusted to tight. I followed the procedure that Ross posted online that has worked well on pretty much on any drum brake system I touched since then. The drums could be shot, but not much I can do about that since these cant easily be sourced. Unless there is now a source? I just know from the little I drove the car around this location before I commenced this new shoe install was better braking performance. The lining separating from the shoe is what prompted this shoe change.
Posted on: Today 17:11
|
|||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
Clearly something is up. You can just jack up the car, pop the hubcap off and then remove the nut cap, pull the cotter pin and unscrew the nut. Then pull the wheel and drum as an assembly and check it out.
Otherwise what can you do? Clearly the brakes are applying and I'm assuming the braking is even (check by braking without holding the wheel).
Posted on: Today 17:36
|
|||
|
1955 400 | Registry | Project Blog
1955 Clipper Deluxe | Registry | Project Blog 1955 Clipper Super Panama | Registry Email (Parts/service inquiries only, please. Post all questions on the forum.) service@ultramatic.info |
||||
|
||||
|
Re: Carb Return Spring
|
||||
|---|---|---|---|---|
|
Home away from home
|
Quote:
Yes, braking on this car is very even.
Posted on: Today 17:39
|
|||
|
||||
