Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

My T/L motor is not working. I found broken wires at one of the limit switches and am in the process of fixing that. I tried putting a 12 volt jumper to each of motor terms but it would not spin. There was no sparks or anything, so I pulled the dust cover and was able to turn the armature a little in both directions with my fingers. The brushes look good and are seated squarely and making contact with the armature. everything looks clean inside and didn't see any corrosion. I checked across the motor terminals with ohm meter and got zero ohms, but it seems like I should have some resistance reading? It looks like the motor can be pulled out without pulling the compensator but I'm not sure and don't want to make things worse. I could use some guidance from here on, and it would be greatly appreciated.
I think if I can get the motor out to where I can see it on my bench I may have a better shot at fixing it. The car is in the driveway on jacks and not easy to see much under there as I'm sure all of you know from your own experiences.
Thanks.

I would be concerned about even turning the self levelling switch ON if the car is on jacks and not on the actual suspension as you could damage the system. An open circuit (broken) torsion level limit switch will certainly stop the system from working in the direction controlled by that limit switch. However, there are some very clever contributors to this site. Just don't touch anything or pull the motor out until you get a few more threads about where to start with the fault-finding. Best regards Peter Toet

Bowman, I may be reading your post and interpreting it badly.
First, put the car on jackstands - two at the lower A-frames and two supporting the rear end.
To make the motor run FOR A COUPLE OF REVOLUTIONS ONLY just to see if it works you must attach the negative battery terminal or jumper to a good ground and then touch one OR the other motor terminals with the positive lead. One terminal will make it run CCW and the other will make it run CW. That is just a test to see if the motor will work. If it does then you have a wiring problem to correct. You will need to disconnect the limit switches from the control box to unscrew them. Don't lose the copper washers on each switch. When you have the limit switches repaired and reinstalled disconnect the compensator control rod by removing the small nut securing the rod to the grommet at the main torsion bar. You can then manually move the control rod and thus the compensator control. Be patient as there is approximately a 7 second delay built in. If the mechanism now works satisfactorily, reconnect the rod. If not, double check the inline fuses under the hood near the solenoids. If necessary you can remove the field and armature as a unit but you will have to fashion a plate at the end of the motor to support the armature for any kind of testing. Good luck and let us know your progress.

Randy, I suppose the rear end would mean putting the jacks under the axle and not under the frame.

Bowman, that is correct. You want the T/L bars loaded just as if the car was on the ground. I like to place the front jackstands as close to the wheel as possible. That way you are getting the max amount of leverage against the bars. I always give the car a good shove from different sides/ends to make sure the stands are stable. These big cars hurt when they fall on you.
Just for grins, you may want to grease the car while it's up on stands. Refer to the shop manual and catch all those fittings. I grease mine once a year.

Randy, Thanks again for the quick and helpful advice. I replied to you last night but, I noticed when I logged in just now my reply didn't go out for some reason. I can't do anything on the Packard today, we are getting some strong winds (40 to 50 mph gusts) from "NOEL" and will not clear out until late tonight or tomorrow. I could not find any connectors in the wiring for any of the T/L components under the car, which makes me believe it is all oem. However I believe someone had tried(and maybe did) remove the limit switch closest to the drivers door, which I think is the up switch. Both of the wires were broken but did make intermittent contact when jiggled a little bit. The other limit switch does not appear to have any broken wires and I should be able to determine if it is working once I figure out the problem with the motor but it may be better to go ahead and cut the wiring, remove the switch and make sure it is ok, then add wire connectors and install both switches, and see if the motor will run. I do know the solenoids, stop light switch and toggle switch work. What do you think?

when you say "I do know the solenoids, stop light switch and toggle switch work" do you mean:

1)when you take a lead hooked to ground and touch the small stud-connector on the front of each solenoid that you can hear/feel it click? and there is no action in the T/L motor?

2) that the stop light switch is sending power to the T/L control switch when you are NOT depressing the brake?

3) which in turn is successfully sending that power to the timing box under the car when the switch is turned on?

Have you tested/inspected the 30 amp AGC fuse in the in-line holder that supplies the motor current to the solenoids? easy to test, just put a test light from ground to the bus bar between the two solenoids

CUT THE WIRING!? Why would you consider doing that when all you have to do is remove two screws on the control box and unplug a couple of Douglas connectors? These cars are fairly easy to work on - there isn't even a PCV valve to bother with. Have just a modicum of patience and do the job properly.

Randy, Tried to get back to you yesterday but was having a problem with computer kicking me out after a few minutes. I think it was the cox cable connection. Seems fine today.
(1) yes, each solenoid clicks when I touch a ground jumper to the center term.

(2) I have 12 volts at both sides of the toggle switch (with the switch to the on position,toward the center of the car) until the brake is depressed.

(3) I can hear the control box clicking when I actuate the lever for the limit switches, It seems the box clicks (about 7 times, about 7 seconds) when the lever is moved in one direction but,does not click at all in the other direction.

have you tried testing for 12V at the motor terminals when the solenoid is grounded?

Did you try to (very, very briefly) touch a "hot" 12V wire to the motor terminals? again, as Randy said do not run the motor for more than a fraction of a second this way--you are defeating the limit switches when you do this Just run te motor long enough to tell that it works, no more.