Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Quote:

Don, the brushes were in good shape. I did not measure them, but I estimated there was plenty of meat left based on how little I use the heater and brush length versus brush box size.




Quote:

Interesting. I've never been able to do this based on the pulley interfering with the two lower bolts on the water pump. In the past, I've covered the radiator in cardboard, installed the pump, and then slid the pulley over the hub. This time, I installed pump, pulley, and belt as a unit, but the pulley was not bolted the hub so I could move it out of the way and get the mounting bolts for the water pump tightened up.

I believe I put the two lower bolts into the pump casting first, then put on the fan and pulley. Tape can be used to keep the loose bolts out against the pulley so they don't interfere with getting the pump assembly in place. I glued the gasket to the block face with gasket sealant. I had to jack up the front of the engine about 1/2" to remove the pump, due to the front motor mount having settled. This was necessary to get one of the pump bolts out, and may have made re-installing the assembly a little easier. I had a very hard time getting the lower radiator hose/pipe clamps off. The solution to that is to remove the right inner fender panel. It's fairly easy to remove and replace, and doing so gives much better access to the lower hose connections and to the water pump. I did not remove the panel when working on my water pump, but when I later removed it to check the valve adjustment, I was able to easily access the lower hose clamps.

Ken,

I'm doing a batch of these exact motors, right now. The brush life looks fine (for the next 88 years)...even running in Idaho winters.

Let me know if you run into any issues during reassembly...I use a mix (make it runny) of dielectric grease and silicone spray...not too thick or it will add too much bearing resistance. I saturate those front/rear felt lube washers completely and dip in silicone liquid to load them up.

Also, put the stove bolts to backcase+field coils+nut+spacer+brush board+nut assy together and then check the free rotation motion as well as the end lash...loose fit (hold closed by hand) the frontcase and then hook it up to your power supply (or battery). Check to see that it is functioning first (set your power supply to 6.3V, open circuit voltage and the closed circuit limit current to 2.6A)...once running it will peak up to 2.5A and then once the lube circulates it will speed up and the current will drop to 1.3-2 amps)...then disassemble, do your finalizing and finish...be careful of the frontcase nuts...i snug them up by hand and plug the motor in and, while running it, carefully tighten them both back and forth evenly...the motor speed shouldnt drop when tightening (dont overtighten)...if they do, you may have a lack of end lash clearance and may need to reopen and inspect how the spherical bearings are pinching/seating the stackup of fiber/felt/metal keeper washers at both ends...sometimes rubbing the washers against a flat piece of 400 grit sandpapers takes burrs/small amounts off if necessary.

PM me for questions and if you haven't already re-turned the commutator cylindrical surface to dress it up for future optimal running and brush life.

I hope this helps,

Dan in WY

I think I installed and tightened the fan and pulley before installing the assembly. It might be easier to get them in place to do it as you did, with the fan bolts in place but not tight, but you'd then have to tighten them with a box end wrench, which would be tedious given the restricted access.

I think there is a procedure in one of the service letters for removing the 120 radiator with the front fenders in place. It involves removing the hood, water pump, and horns, If I recall correctly. I'd think it would then take two people to lift the radiator out.

Dan, I should have asked before I re-assembled - you clearly have the expertise!

I put it all back together last weekend. I used silicone lube on the ends of the shaft, then put some additional spray through the oil holes. My power source was my Packard. I did check all of the end play and free rotation as I was assembling, but your experience is showing in your writeup! If I have to take it apart again, I'll have great instructions.

I did go back out and check my end play after reading everything you did, and I do have sufficient end play. It is amazing to me how much flex there is the two halves of the motor shell. Those stove bolts really are what provides the rigidity I think.

Once the paint is dry on my core, it will all go back together. I had a little bit of paint peel up, so it might be a few days.

Quote:

There is, and I've done it. Details earlier in this blog, early 2022 vintage, if memory serves me correctly.

Order of ops is remove hood, remove core support rods (difficult to do without scratching), remove hoses, unbolt and remove radiator. Horns are unaffected, at least on the '37.

It was a lot more straightforward than I thought, but definitely requires two people, or a chainfall or similar.

Ken,

I'm glad it all worked out and it works fine...glad we agree on silicone lube.

Dan