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I removed the glovebox yesterday and removed the tracks. Washed them in my parts washer then lubed up with Lubriplate. Wiped off the excess and they work a lot better. Importantly, I also lubricated the catch spring attached to the bottom of the door, not only for smooth operation but to stop the squeaks. (Reference thread here.)

When reinstalling, have the rear track-to-dash screws (i.e. closest to the dash) in tight, and the front screws loose a bit. Firmly push the glovebox against the dash from the front, this will align the "curves" properly. You can then tighten the front screws. Then, check the up-down alignment. I used a pair of 383555 finish washers facing each other under each screw, and some oval head 10-32 screws G169028 to replace the factory G425565 screws. Looks pretty good and the alignment is much better.

Also lubricated the ashtrays and they work like new now. Tweaked the lock cam for proper operation.

youtube.com/shorts/RgpmCqG8Vf4?si=U1mZCY7-8anM50zv

I got the weatherstripping on the rear door as well as most of the front door. As I mention in document 1048JA, it is necessary to make a relief cut on the door side of the weatherstrip to bend it around the sharp corners. This is about 60 degrees on the rear of the front door and front of the rear door by the beltline, and something like 75 degrees on the rear of rear door. First two photos below show the rear of the rear door.

It is also necessary to add about 1-1/2" extra weatherstrip past the front of the front door and then adhere the center part to the top; this will duct the water above the groove of the weatherstrip and ensure that it travels up and out from the door instead of dripping next to the A-pillar seal. I will add a proper update to document 1048 describing these changes as they are necessary on every car for proper sealing. Last photo shows this. Just gently clamp in place overnight with weatherstrip cement to get it to set.

Nothing nicer looking than some nice new weatherstrip. 🥰

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Checked the front brakes today. Drums are 3/64 over; shoes are bonded. Fortunately, the brake lines have been replaced in the past with stainless steel.

Probably I will buy new shoes, hardware, and hoses. Oh, and wheel cylinders...



In lighter news, I took off the emblem on the side of the car to spray paint it gold, it looks a lot better than the highly faded other side.







This is what I got on order for the brakes.

Quote:

So, do you think they just did the lines and not the wheel cylinders or changed the lines and then never changed the fluid?

I think they changed the lines 20 or 30 years ago and the entire brake system basically dates from then including the wheel cylinders and hoses.