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Hi Guys! A newbie to the website but not entirely a newbie to Packards. If anybody has any ideas on this, I would appreciate it. My Packard that I bought on eBay last year was starting up pretty good but it has been misbehaving lately. When I bought it somebody had switched it over to 12 volt but did an incomplete job of it. It appeared that the only thing changed in the car was the battery. It was burning points with regularity, which somebody who should know told me was a sign that somebody had just dropped in a 12 volt battery. I have put in a new 6 volt battery, a new 6 volt voltage regulator, a new 6 volt coil, new points, new plug wires, new sparkplugs, new rotor, new condenser, new distributor cap, a tuneup, and it was running good for a while. Lately however, you turn the key, and all you hear is a single click. The starter does not run and the engine does not turn over. The battery is new and fully charged. Shop manual says it is the starter or an ultramatic starter switch. I wish I could tell you it is the authentic Delco Remy starter, but it has no nameplate, so it could be stolen from some Chevy for all I know. I think it is a 6 volt starter since it has been starting with a 6 volt battery. Could it be something simple like new brushes? Could it be the 12 volt battery fried the starter solenoid or the starter? Any suggestions? Thanks!
Ken Dunning
kens53clip

Get a 6 volt test light or a multi-meter. Connect one side to ground and then hold one side to the starter side terminal on the solenoid and have someone try to start the car. If you have voltage, then it's probably the starter. If no voltage then try testing for voltage at the Solenoid trigger terminal. If you have voltage there, then the solenoid is bad. If no voltage, then check for voltage at the carburetor starter switch. When the key is on, you should have voltage at one terminal on the carb switch, when you press the pedal, you should have voltage on both terminals, if you only have voltage on one side, then the switch is bad or stuck. Other than that check the neutral safety switch on the steering column to make sure you are getting power on both sides. If no power there, then check for power at the key switch. Basically working backwards towards the battery until you find the source.

One minor correction to Kev's suggestions. I believe the neutral safety switch on yours is at the transmission. Should be a cylindrical object maybe 2 inches long, screwed into side of case toward rear drivers side, and have 2 wires connected.

Assuming no one has messed with the wiring, when you check the carb switch with ignition on and in park, if voltage there, then trans switch OK.

Welcome to the site Ken! You'll like it here. I've been on the site for a couple of years, but really only for the last year in earnest, and have learned a LOT. Unlike you this is my first Packard, so any and ALL advice is good to have.

Good luck with your starting problem. Sounds like you are getting close to finding the problem. You can find a place near you that rebuilds starters, especially since you live such a big city; look in your yellow pages for automotive electrical, or better yet find any local old car club's newsletter and look for ads in the back. Mine is called "Generator Specialty" in St Paul, MN 651-222-7692.

One other common problem is to downsize the cables coming from the battery. With lower volts, like 6 volts, you need larger cables to handle the amps. This won't be what caused your problem, but will make the system run better at 6V - my cable from the battery to the starter is 1, where most parts stores sell a 4. Wire size gets larger with smaller numbers.

Post some pictures of your 53 when you can, and if you feel like it start a project blog by going to "Packard Forums" then to "Project Blogs" and start a new thread.

Welcome!

Thanks for the excellent suggestions BigKev, HH56, and Carl Madsen! Looks like I need to get to work!! Need to get a 6 volt test light or multimeter. We do have a local starter and generator rebuilding shop locally and I have done some business with them in the past and probably will again, but money is tight, sunk a lot of money into the old Packard lately (like a custom rebuilt radiator to replace a leaking one-the old one was so fragile they had to totally rebuild it) and trying to save a buck or two. I have described the car in the Packard Owner Registry and with Big Kev's help I have posted a picture. Will try to start a blog when I get time. Thanks again!
Ken Dunning
kens53clip

Make sure you have good connections at the battery, a bad connection can cause you problems. Good luck.

Very good point davegnh! I am very good at overlooking things. I do need a new battery cable. I am making do with a modern one on the ground but that does need to be fixed. Oh, and did I mention that the polarity was changed by the previous owner to where it is a negative ground? Went ahead and kept it that way as in the past was unfortunate victim of an ignorant battery installer who messed up my voltage regulator. The NAPA replacement voltage regulator works with both positive and negative ground. Local NAPA folks have been very helpful and patient with this Packard nut.
Thanks!
Ken Dunning
kens53clip

Are the battery cables clean and tight at both ends? 6 volt cars are especially critical in this area. Also you need thick #1 cables as has been previously stated.

Another thing to check is that there is a ground between the engine and battery. On your car the ground wire is supposed to go to the engine block. If so, check and make sure there is a small ground wire between the engine and body. Usually this is back near the firewall but they have a way of getting lost over the years.

Your engine is mounted on rubber so if it happens to flop around in a certain position you can end up with no ground to the body or frame. I have seen a choke cable get red hot and burn off when this happened. The choke cable was grounding the engine.

If the batt is grounded to the body or frame like a newer car, make sure there is a good big ground wire to the engine.

These are things that can be checked and fixed for little or no money.

Excellent points, Rusty O'Toole. Will check it all out and see what I can find. Thanks!
Ken Dunning
kens53clip

Just thought I would let you guys know I am still working with your suggestions trying to figure out the problem. Bought a 6-12 volt test light at NAPA and proceeded to test the solenoid connections. Thought I got a light reading indicating a problem with the starter so took out the starter and solenoid and took them to a local auto electric rebuild shop. The local shop was kind enough to test them for me without charge and they reported that both starter and solenoid were working properly. Perhaps I did not do my test properly. But gonna keep on trying. Now I know the starter and the solenoid are not the problem. So my next tasks are to test the carburetor starter switch, the key switch, and all points in between. The wiring is not in good shape with some of the insulation flaking off, so I have plenty to work with. Sooner or later I guess I will have to replace the wiring harness, but electrical tape does cost a lot less.
Thanks!
Ken Dunning
kens53clip