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UPDATE:

Removed the water-jacket yesterday. I was hoping to find a rotted out jacket, but just the opposite. My dilemma now is do I install the new jacket (slightly different) or just put the old one back on.

See pictures here:

http://tomlaferriere.com/Waterjacket.htm

Thanks for the advice.

I continue to think that the most likely contributor to your problem is the radiator, especially since you say the car sat for 15 years with the engine run only occasionally. Have you checked the flow rate?

Also, from the picture it appears that your fuel pump may be weeping fuel from the vent hole. Best check for a failing diaphram.

Send it back. It's not your problem. You need to get the wax type build up out of the radiator. Old coolant (anti-freeze) will gel up somewhat and dry to a waxy consistancy. This in turn plugs up the tubes. The best way to rid this problem is an ultra-sonic cleaning at a radiator shop that has their S#!T together. Try an industrial or heavy truck specialist. Instead of using harsh chemical it's done with a vibratory process. Peace of mind and all...

Hi Tom:

Since I was thrown out of this forum, I normally wouldn't bother with you people any more. But from time to time I do peek in. In your case, you seem like a decent nice guy with a SINCERE interest in keeping a Packard on the road.

So - here goes a suggestion that you may not like because of the absurd cost ! But it the ONLY thing that will WORK!

First, BELIVE in this. A properly set up Packard, no matter WHAT the year, does not over-heat. EVER.

Not when freshly over-hauled, not when new. PERIOD.

As one of many examples of the superiority of Packard's philosophy over "over - engineering" - - by the late teens Packards were "sectioned" into busses by a predecessor of the GREYHOUND BUS CO. in California, and regularly BEAT the express train from Los Angeles to San Francisco. That means they were SCREAMING over the then tortourous "Ridge Route" and across the often extremely "desert hot" Central Valley. Over-heating was not authorized ! And be assured it can get as hot in the Calif. Central Valley, as it does out in the desert!

Here's the problem. No matter how many times you "boil out" or try and "rod out" an old radiator, you can never get it to have anywhere NEAR the "heat exchange" capability it had when in service as a new or late-model used radiator. Just cant be done. The problem is "basic laws of chemistry".

I can assure you (from my own experience with my own '34 Super Eight), that when you get your radiator "re-cored", you will find you can subject that Super Eight of yours to any kind of combined extreme temp.driving conditions you can think of, and it WILL NOT OVER-HEAT.

So here's the bad news. I wouldnt be surprised to find that present day cost of a comparable "core" for your radiator will be close to a thousand bucks (by the time the radiator shop is done getting you a core, and setting it up using your existing top and bottom "tanks"). Your motor produces a LOT of heat, so it takes a LOT of radiator to cool it right.

Dont worry about getting your oil cooler operational. It was a attempt by Packard engineers to solve the connnecting rod bearing failure issue. It failed. Cooling the motor oil did NOT solve the problem of "babbit" connecting rod bearings failing from high speed driving - it wasnt solved until 1935 production with the introduction of "insert" type rod-bearings.

With insert-type con rod bearings, Packard was able to run a 1935 Eight wide open, doing 90 mph plus, for 25,000 mi. without significant wear. A bone stock '34 or earlier 8 cyl Packard with stock 'poured babbit' WILL have rod bearing failure in less than 2,000 miles of high speed driving. If you want to see why that didnt matter much given the road conditions when your car's motor was originally designed (in the early 1920's) come out west and see what the roads were REALLY like in those years - "awful" dosnt cover it !

Hopefully, if your '34 Super Eight was PROPERLY re-built, it already either has '35/later connecting rods, (which were already set up for "insert" type con rod bearings,) or someone took those lovely "finned cap" rods of yours and machined them to take an "insert" type bearing. If your car isnt so equipped..please PLEASE dont drive it over 40 mph for any but a short burst, and the MOMENT you dont have at least 40 lbs oil pressure HOT, and/or hear any "thumping" noises, GET THAT MOTOR APART AND FIX IT RIGHT!

In any event, use a water filter on the top of your out-put hoses to protect that expensive new radiator core that is your ONLY solution to over-heating.

No matter how thoroughly you THINK you have cleaned that engine block...it will continue to "sweat" little particles that can stuff up a radiator core and leave you back where you were.

Good luck ! You should be able to find my phone number if you want to go into further detail.

For the first time I agree with PFH, get the radiator recored, it's worth it. Avoid the aluminum hot rod radiators like the plague, they actually don't cool as well as the stock radiator will.

Suggestions on a radiator re-core company in the New England area that has actually done these type of radiators? I use some local guys here in RI for "other stuff".

Thanks for the continued input and advice.

Tom

I'll say it again - have the radiator examined and flow-rate tested first before deciding you need a recore, unless the $700 or so doesn't matter that much to you. Not the worst core to remove, but you'll want 2 or 3 guys available, it's awkward and heavy. You remove it with the shell and shutters as an assembly, then lay flat and remove the shell and shutters. Keep the shims/insulators in their original position at the base if the radiator is already sitting correctly, otherwise you'll end up playing around with shims to get it correct again.

Water Jacket removed. It was in wonderful condition as were the cylinders. Now I have a spare. Re-installed and on the road again...running hot. Radiator service will be next. Dont know when, as I dont want to take the car down for any length of time during the season.

Will update when I have something to update.

OK, I removed the radiator on this car after taking a 60 mile run in 70 degrees. It ran at 185 over the road and would climb 195 sitting at a light. This was same as last year.

It wasn't so bad, but the engine hoist made it simple. I separated the shell and shutters and removed the shutter thermostat to reveal MANY completely plugged tubes. If I was to guess, I would say 30%+ plugged from what I could see. I will see more once the tanks are off.

I am going to re-core it with original material, total cost to me $1070. This will probably be the best investment in this car. I want to use it without worry of boiling.

I will keep this thread updated.

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Tom,

Glad to see you were able to pick up some cheap labor to help in the process!