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Thanks John. Hopefully Eric won't request a notarized affidavit

No notary required, but I've seen a heck of a lot of 6V cars that neither started quickly nor easily. It's always been my experience that the negatives of a 6V system outweigh the positives in almost every case. Too finicky and too expensive for me.

Yes. I have a 1951 TO20 Ferguson with all original 6v and Continental 4 cyl engine. It can set right there next to
the house for 2 months without operating nor charging the battery and at 10 below zero F it will kick rite off and run in about 3 to 4 turns of the engine. Cranking speed is SLOW yes. But it has never failed to start in 17 years i've owned it. ALL lites work just fine too.

The ONLY thing i have done to the electrical system in the 17 years i've owned it is file the points and a new battery about every 3 - 4 years and oil in the oil cups. It's ALL original AND sits outside (covered with water bed mattresses) for the last TEN years.

THe CATCH is that it is a FARM TRACTOR that rarely if ever leaves the ranch. I'd sure be up shits creek if i got 50 miles from home on it and the eletrics failed.

It's one thing to fix a problem in friendly surrondings. It's a different world a long way from home.

I never gave it much attention at the time but back in the early 60's when I lived up on James Bay most of the cars were 6 volt and I don't recall having too many problems starting them even at -30F and lower and we didn't have engine block heaters. i do recall draining the oil and bringing it inside and warming it on the wood stove though on occasion.

Just set a coal bucket (coals taken from the wood burner) under the oil pan for over nite. That will keep it warm enuf to start. Many of the older cars sat high enuf to allow for this.

Keep the front of the car pointed toward and as close to the house or other wind obstruction. This is good advice even for modern cars in extremely cold, windy or lake shore regions. Wind blowing off of a frozen lake directly into the grill of ANY car will suck the battery flat in about 8 hours.

I have to chime in here on this.My 51 is running by the time the engine makes three revolutions.If it does not there is something wrong.Yes if the car has not been run for a week or so it will need cranking.But when warm rarely goes around once.If cold the three revolutions previously mentioned.Maybe two. Brian

Turbopacman wrote:
Quote:


Can't wait for the 48 volt system conversions. Bet that 6 volt starter will really spin then.

Did see a guy that converted to 12 volts and left the 6 volt starter in. Boy would it spin the motor.

G'day all, I am running 12V in my 38-1601 with a 6V starter, without any problems. I am using a 2.4 Ohm Ballast resistor from a 70's, 80's Japanese ignition coil to supply sensitive 6V electrics, such as fuel gauge, radio and Overdrive solenoid. It drops about 7 Volts but works fine. I have omitted the kick down relay and switch entirely from the O/D circuit, as the bored out 327 kicks violently into the steering column when kicked down on full throttle. I run two wires: One from the IGN on the solenoid directly to the Ignition LT. The second wire is from the SW on the O/d solenoid to a push button on the dash, to a feed from the 6V ballast resistor. Kick down is now gentle and immediate, independent of the throttle position. I have converted to Negative ground for all except the radio. Best Regards Peter Toet.

Just had to throw this in because it made me chuckle to myself thinking about it. When we first got ours off the flatbed last month the only thing that works well and I can be proud of is the fact that she will in fact start on a half crank of the starter. Now to keep her running is a different story. *sigh*