Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Upon returning from a Cruise Night with the '50 Custom last week, we rolled the front passenger window up only to find it had cracked. I got out the Service Manual and read up on window removal. I removed the window without any difficulty and discovered that it had been in contact with a loose retaining screw while in the open position.

I've tightened the screw back down but the runway channel is pretty worn out. I have found sources for replacement channel but after reading the Service Manual I'm not sure it's something I want to tackle. It's my understanding from reading the manual that the channel is riveted to the retainer and would require removing the entire window retainer assembly, drilling out the rivets (14?) and re-riveting or using an adhesive to install the new channel.

Anybody attempted this? How big a deal is it? At this point I think I'm more inclined to super-glue a patch of felt over the screw head for insurance, install the new window, lube up the lifter mechanism and call it good.

I can always get experience installing new window channel when I start the refurbishment of the '41 180 limo this fall (that window channel has to be replaced).

Haven't tackled that series but sounds very much like a 54. Was a bit of PIA but do-able with some issues. Problem I ran into was the rivet replacement. Couldn't find any small flat head ones short enough (this was a few yrs ago before internet shopping a good option). Pop rivets heads available were too thick & tool wouldn't fit in channel so finally wound up using small flat head screws that would bury themselves in the felt. If you can get the proper rivets and tools, then that is most of the battle--otherwise, while not correct, screws will work although there was a couple of spots it was dicey. Modern adhesives are marvels, but not sure I would trust entirely.

JD,
I would be inclined to agree with your patch idea, especially if you have a rebuild plan in the next year or so.

I did a recent driver window glass replacement myself. I found that once you remove the old glass from the sash channel and seat the new glass (with glass tape or friction tape), the window works smoothly (with a bit of fresh grease on the regulator gears). It seems that the "whiskered-sides" of the channel are more important to guiding the glass than the bottoms of the channel. (Most channels have rivet heads in the bottom, but the glass does not go there if everything else is working smoothly.

I had a "stuck" driver window that would not roll down because the 'wedge' of broken glass in the bottom corner was digging into the felt channel and catching on a rivet. It works fine now with new glass and lubricated regulator gears and glides.

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Good Luck in KC.

DanL

Agree the patch idea should work just fine but would make sure it is either very well adhered at the top edge so it couldn't work loose & let the window catch it on the way down or else make it a long narrow strip. If the upper edge is above the lowest point the bottom of window would travel & there is always some of it the window is riding against, think it would lessen chances it could loosen & cause any binding issues.

Since all the windows need channel replacement I decided to wait until I have the time to do them all at once. Seems like a good January-February project when the car is little used.

I went ahead and installed the new window after re-securing the existing thread-bare channel and gluing a short strip of felt over the screw head followed by a long strip covering the short strip and running about half-way up the channel. The window works well and fits snugly in the track. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the replacement glass wasn't all that expensive ($46.88 including tax and labor for the new safety glass cut to match the old window and installed in the old lifter channel with new rubber gasket material).

Guys, thanks for your input.

JD,

Glad you have the window all repaired. Your disassembly and assembly will be good practice for the channel replacement of all windows later. :) Are your old windows yellowed around the edges of the panes?

Actually, I got better with practice on my driver window repair. I have 3 new replacement glasses to install later. The difference in the new glass is a motivator to replace the rest.

Enjoy the breeze (or no breeze, depending...)

DanL

Not enough yellowing to make the new clear glass stand out any. I may replace the wind wing glass when I pull the window assemblies because of minor de-lamination and discoloration along the edge, maybe 1/8th inch deep and spotty; not very noticeable when the wing is closed.

JD

I have never replaced the wind wings (ventilating windows). They actually look much easier to do than the rolling panes. The Packard Shop Manual gives a 'short method' that does not remove the rolling window or regulator mechanism.

But, this winter, you will have to take everything out to replace the runways for the drop glass windows. On my 41 Clipper, a runway for each drop glass windows is attached to each wind wing frame, front and back. It may be different in your 41.

I will pass through KC tomorrow going to a family funeral in Bolivar. We will pick up our kids and grandson at KC Airport.

Last time I was through KC was in June. I really enjoyed PAC Nat'l Meet Branson. Midwest Packards were wonderful hosts.

Later,
DanL

This SAME thing happened on my 50 on the drivers and passengers front. I have some yellowing on all of my glass. At goodguys in columbus there was a vendor selling glass of any tint (i;d like brown to go with my brown interior on forest green car) for like $450 plus shipping for the whole car. Was about half the price i'd found elsewhere, and it'd be shiny clean all new pretty glass! Would probably do leaky rubber at the same time.

Now i just gotta find his card...