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Good morning all,

Got stuck into the long delayed job of replacing the pins and bearings this morning.

Everything is going well but I am baffled by how the old pins come out.

I have the top bearning out but the pin seems to be in a one way only situation, ie, the bottom of the setup has no opening to allow the pin to come out. How is the pin supposed to come out? There seems to be no way to drive or push out....

Pat.

Until someone shows up that really knows your particular model i'll take a guess:
Look at the BOTTOM of the steering knuckel to see if there is a welch plug driven into the bottom of it. If so then drill a small hole in center of welch plug and pry out the plug.


IF the TOP of the KING PIN is threaded at least 3/8 diamenter then install a sleeve over the king pin bottoming on the knuckle or axle but HIGHER than the king pin. Install a bolt and large washer and tighten the bolt and draw out the king pin..

Have u checked to see if there is a mnaual for your car on this website?????? If so download it and read what it says to remove the pin.

No personal experience on my 34 as the pins are as tight as new, but have you looked at the picture in the parts manual? It's an excellent picture and it appears to me that after you remove the tapered locking pin or bolt, you can put a pin punch through the bottom grease nipple hole and drive the in upwards. Maybe?

UPDATE;

I think I get it now, the whole assembley seems to hang from the threaded cap on top. I falls down with a small amount of force. It leaves the pin 'in situ' firmly stuck on the end of the axle. Need to remove the steering assembly now in order to lift it over the pin...

Here's one view from the parts manual, there is an adjacent picture in more of a phantom view which may also be helpful.


I always find it interesting that these views show both the wire spoke wheel and the wooden artillery wheel, yet none show the disteel wheel, still offered in 1934 and especially popular on export cars due to their exceptional strength, this view from a 1933 Eight.

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UPDATE,

everything removed except the old pin. There is a flat on the new one i presume to locate and hold it in place, there appears to be a wedge that needs to be removed first in order to remove the old one.

Any ideas on removing this, the diagrams above are very helpfull.

What little I know about removing king pins comes mostly from a couple of jobs on medium- and heavy-duty trucks of more recent years, which still used a solid front axle.

Study the parts book cross-sectional diagram provided above. Follow the length of the kingpin and about halfway down, you will notice a small circle. I believe that represents a pin that runs cross-wise through the end of the axle to lock the king pin in place.

Unless PMCC used a something as obvious as a bolt and nut as a locking pin for the king pin, it may take some careful cleaning and inspection of your axle to reveal that location. I know nothing about a '34 Packard, but have seen this hole capped with lead plugs. Some trucks used a tapered locking pin, which only comes out one way - opposite the way it was driven in.

You may have to drill this locking pin out - start with smaller diameter bit, then work your way to a larger ones. You may not have to drill it out completely, but after you've hollowed it out enough, what's left may be driven out with a punch.

Yet, even after the locking pin is removed, the king pin may be rust bound. If so, you may have to resort to heating the axle with a torch. When driving the king pin out, you need to support not only the axle, but place some sort of spacer between the top and bottom ends of the knuckle to keep form distorting it.

Hope this helps and that others chime in if they have more specific/accurate advice.

Yes the wedge is holding the pin in place, it is about half way down the pin, it needs to be driven out. Been trying to for the last half hour with heat and a punch to no avail. I am prob just flattening in inside the axle end.

The locking pin will need to be drilled out.

Because it is difficult to get dead-center on this, you should start with a bit that is much SMALLER in diameter than the hole. That way you won't be trying to remove so much metal all at once.

Move up to the next bit size and have another go at it. Repeat as required.

When enough metal has been removed, what's left of the locking pin will relax it's grip, and you should be able to drive it out with a punch - perhaps aided by a little heat.

Just getting that locking pin out can be a tedious process. Be glad there's only one for each king pin; some trucks used two per side.

Keep us posted. (Got any pix?)