Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Some time back there was a forum exchange about the safety benefits of installing battery cut-off switches in our Packard motor cars. Following-up on this I ordered two Cole Hersee 2484-09 switches from elecDirect.com on their online site. A switch for each of my Packards, a '37 Six and a '47 Clipper. The switches cost about $30US each.

I first installed the cut-off switch on the '37. I placed it in back of the battery on the floor pan under the seat. In this installation I switched the ground (positive) cable. This is the preferred way for electrical safety. However, I found the switch location under the seat to be inconvenient, and started looking for a location in the engine compartment.

I determined that a location on the steering column near the starter would be the best place. I fabricated a flat mounting bracket out of 1 1/4" wide x 1/8" thick steel. I attached the switch to the bracket, the bracket to a 1 1/2" exhaust pipe clamp, and the whole assembly on the steering column. The starter (negative) cable was connected to one terminal of the switch. A 14" battery cable with 3/8" opening terminals on each end was connected from the switch to the starter solenoid.

I am pleased with the results. The switch is easy to access, the appearance is acceptable. I painted the switch, bracket, and clamp black so as to help it hide in plain sight. However, switching the hot cable is not the preferred electrical safety way, but the installation is safely mounted.

Following this are a series of photos showing the switch mocked-up on a piece of tubing on top of my work bench, a photo of the starter area before the switch was installed, and a photo showing the completed switch installation.

I have both of my Packards in the house-attached garage, and feel better knowing that the possibility of an electrical fire has been greatly reduced.

Next, I will install a switch on the Clipper. This should be an easier job as the battery is under the hood. Meanwhile, the ground strap is disconnected.

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John, Very impressive!

I'm glad you went with the Cole-Hersee switch, I really respect their products, they are made like the old days.

John,
A 'slick' installation of a solid switch.

I use a disconnect nob on the neg ground post of my Clipper. It is not close to 'slick' or convenient.
I undo the nob. Pull the cable away. Then tuck it down against the side of the battery.
It is a 'solid disconnect' but takes longer and risks 'battery acid' (anhydrite) contact.

(My wife refers to all my pants with acid holes as 'Packard Pants.')
DanL

41ParPac, thanks to you and the others for the compliments. It's nice when a job comes together. You mentioned that you use a disconnect nob on the negative ground post of your Clipper. Do you mean the positive ground post, or did you do something on your Clipper's electrical system to change it to negative ground? Just curious.

I have gotten in the habit of disconnecting my battery on my '53 until I can pick up and install one of these switches. I have been disconnecting the negative (hot)cable to the starter. It sounds like that's not the right thing to do. I thought since the circuit was disrupted I'd be okay. Am I still in danger?

John, thanks for the posting. A very elegant installation.

I have been disconnecting the negative (hot)cable to the starter. It sounds like that's not the right thing to do. I thought since the circuit was disrupted I'd be okay. Am I still in danger?

Physically removing either cable from the battery results in a safe condition, baring some unforeseen quirky event. In my view the risk I see all too often is when people use the little green knob device (basically a very poor solution) on the "hot" terminal of the battery when just fractions of an inch below it is the metal battery hold-down bracket which of course is grounded; should the cable head or switch drop down that fraction and contact the battery hold-down, you've got a whopping direct short!! For that reason I have always recommended that if you must use one of these lousy devices, use it to break the ground cable. And don't consider using one on a 6-volt system, they just don't have the cross-sectional area to carry the needed current.

Thanks Dave. I am physically removing the cable but installing a switch like John did would be more convenient.

John

Polarity was reversed before I it. Probably, in early 1980s when it was restored by previous owner.

I have a 39 LaSalle with + grd (as original). But with battery under the floor board panel, I have not begun to think of cut out possibilities.

More important than cut-outs, I am learning the value of a "Battery Tender" for maintaining battery 'health.' Got one recently and am glad to add it to my shop.

DanL

I've got a switch like JW. It is mounted on the bottom of the battery box. Only the switch protrudes through making it inconspicuous. On my 32 I'm fortunate as the battery box is right under the front fender.