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Terry, I don't recall looking at Wade's oil cooler picture but the 35 and up units were entirely different than the one-year-only unit used on 1934 Eights and Super Eights.

Here's a quick & dirty simple scan of the OEM 34 cooler core for the eights. OAL of the base core w/o the studs is about 6 inches, width about 2-3/4, depth about 3 inches. Inlet and outlet for oil at opposite ends between the studs. Water flow thru the cellular portion.

If you're a bit uncertain about visualizing a heat exchanger, just view it as a conventional radiator but with oil replacing the water, and water replacing the air flow.

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I know..I know, i am not loved around here - but this guy sounds legit, so I will come back just this once & try and help him out.

here's the deal about the Harrison oil coolers on 30's Packards. There was some kind of production issue with those oil coolers the '34's - your failure was not unique.

Packard had to order a whole new batch; the revised ones were still in Packard Stores ( what they called the "factory" parts section), as late as '54, when I got a new one for my '34 Super Eight. Never had a problem with it again.

Last I heard, 1580 E. Grand Ave wasn't responding to parts orders!......, sooo...here's what you do these days.

RE PLUMB YOUR OIL SYSTEM BY-PASSING THE OIL COOLER. YOU DONT NEED IT !

Here's the story. By the early 30's Packard was looking for a solution to the rod bearing problem. "poured babbit" rod bearings worked o.k. on long-stroke engines in the old days...FOR A WHILE.

By the thirties, as road speeds permitted cruising at above, oh, say 40 - 45 mph, you had epidemic rod-bearing failure.

Packard never solved that problem. It finally gave up, linked up with Federal Mogul, so that 1935 and later production had "insert" type connecting rod bearings.

Hopefully, you guys with pre-war "big" Packards are "dropping" that very long oil pan every couple of years to properly clean it out, AND your engine was PROPERLY re-built years ago with "insert" type connecting rod bearings, and thus will give you CENTURIES of good service.

Your present "problem" has only ONE solution, and it isn't pretty. You are going to HAVE to 'pull" your radiator for a full "boil out" by a competent radiator shop. More than likely, they will tell you your core needs replacement, if it wasnt replaced already.

Then you need to take the side-jackets off, and THROUGHLY blast out the water passages. Your cyl. head has to come off too, for a thorough boiling out.

When PROPERLY maintained, there is NO combination of abuse that will cause ANY Packard to over-heat. Believe in that. BELIEVE Packard had a WELL DESERVED reputation for providing a serviceable car for the dollar!

Also believe that "back-yard" solutions can not alter the laws of physics. Do it right the first time, and your car will give the service it was designed to.

Good luck !

Thanks again guys.
Looks like i'm gonna be busy over the winter months but what the heck the old girls worth it and the boss says it keeps me out of her hair.
It will be nice to have the car right for the new yaers season.
Regards
Terry

Hi Dave,
Now the classic shows have finished I've been building myself up to do the oil cooler leak. On reading all your info again I came to the conclusion that this could be bit difficult for a long term fix without all the facilities to do the job.
I then had an idea that why not change the water jacket to one without the cooler attachment and change the oil filter housing to one that takes the modern oil filter cartridge, therefore eliminating the oil cooler and still maintaining the water and oil flow.
The questions to you are:- Is this a feasible idea? Are all the hole centres on the water jacket the same as for the type with the oil cooler? Is there a problem in fitting the oil filter? I believe it is listed as an L6. Are there any other problems that could occur?
Looking forward to your response to this.
Best regards
Terry

Terry, first as regards the oil filter, yes the 34 was a Purolator L-6, later years used an L-8 and adapters were around to convert an L-8 to fit an L-6 application, difference is in the connections at the ends. The L-6 accepts male pipe-thread fittings at each end and the L-8 terminates in a flat face with tapped holes for a flange which accepts the pipe thread fittings. There are several options for the filter, in the US both Burr Ripley and R&A Engineering manufacture "look-alike" L-6 and L-8 canisters which come apart an accept modern spin-on filters inside. In Ripley's case (the unit I have) the spin-on is slightly modified and you need to buy them from him; the housing is a bit expensive ($450?) but the replacement cartridges are inexpensive. I believe R&A takes a unmodified modern spin-on, but am not absolutely certain. Also the CCCA did (may still) offer an inexpensive kit to convert you existing L-6 or L-8 for a modern spin-on; essentially you cut the housing at the crimp, soldered a matched set of threaded rings to the ends, and installed a plate inside to accept the new filter. An "O" ring completes the deal.

As to to the water jacket plate, I believe all 320 engines from 1929 thru 1938 (and maybe 1939) have the same bolt pattern and dimensions so you should be able to replace yours with one w/o the cooler fixture. These are readily available.

As to the cooler itself, the 320 engine from 1929 thru 1933 didn't have one, so the engine should be functional without it, though of course it was added and it's use continued thru 1939 due to ever-increasing highway speeds to prolong bearing and engine life. Also it's a unique feature of the 1934 Eights and Super Eights and I'd like very much to see you continue the original appearance, if not the funtion. 1935 and up used a cooler of different construction (plate vs cellular and generally trouble-free) mounted where the lower radiator hose connects to the engine block - one of these might fit though I don't recall quite how the filter adapted.

If you're uncomfortable about modifying the cooler yourself, why not send the housing to a machine shop and just have them fabricate a simple pipe and flange (with threaded studs) arrangement to fit inside and replace the cooler - should be very simple and inexpensive - and it's what many folks have done - I'm a bit suprised that some enterprising person hasn't made them up in quantity for sale and you might check with Max Merritt to see if he's actually done that though I haven't heard of it. If you went that route, then you could keep the original appearance and filter mounting and plumbing arrangement. If this appeals to you, I could recommend at least one place here in the US that could make the internal cooler replacement tube.

Here's a picture of the Burr Ripley L-6 conversion. And Terry, every so often an NOS L-6 or L-8 filter will appear on Ebay or similar - don't even think about it!! Chances are good that the paper has deteriorated and will turn to mush on first contact with oil, plugging every oil passage in the engine!! And whatever route you take, make sure that any filter lines, fittings, adapters etc. have at least the same inside diameter as the original hard pipe tubing.

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Cheers Dave,
The car has gone round to a guy I know who works on old Rolls Royces and Bentleys plus he is a lover of Packards.
He is going to have a look at the cooler and see what he can do to repair it.
If he does'nt have any luck then I would like to take up your offer of the contact who can make the by-pass tube in the States.
I will keep this site up to date on the outcome.
Thanks again
Terry