Packard Forum Index » Modification Discussion

Quote:

By all means if you find one with the heat sink, grab the heat sink as well as the plug that goes in the TFI module itself. The TFI module you want to use is the one that has a single connector, not the dual connector version. Most if not all the "remote mount" versions are the single connector variety. I would find one for a 1994 Ford Thunderbird with a 3.8L, that should get you the proper version. Here's an identification pic to show you the differences:

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Now, once you get your module and heat sink, as well as the plug, it's time to mount it in a location that's hidden but still gets a lot of airflow. I like to put them behind the grille, as it's easily hidden and gets plenty of air flowing over it to keep it cool. My '94 T-Bird was like this, a good idea IMHO.

The wiring is very simple and straight forward, and you will be using all the wires on the TFI module. #3 and #6 connector on the module can be connected to the + side of the coil, as they're all + switched. Here's a wiring diagram to show you how to adapt this to point control:

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Now, I didn't come up with this idea by any means. People have been doing this for a long time on other vehicles, and I make no claim to have invented it.

That being said, some people have used the GM module, but I wouldn't. The Ford module is configured to look for a square signal from the distributor, a GM isn't. Of course points put off a square signal, so it's a perfect match. IMHO, this system is better than my modified Packard distributors, as this allows you to use the original distributor in it's original location, with no irreversible modifications done. Just make sure you remove the condenser, as it's now no longer needed!!!!

Pros:
Points last forever, they're now nothing more than a switch to signal the TFI.
Parts are easily available anywhere.
A much hotter spark than what you originally had, as the TFI can handle a hotter coil than the points could.
More accurate spark timing.
You can keep the condenser in the glove box and convert it back instantly if you make harness capable of doing that. This way if the module dies you can always get home on straight points.

Cons:
Has to be 12v.
You now have a Ford part on your car.

Hmmmmmmmm. I like it. I'll have to go check the price of a module to see if it fits my budget.

Here's a Link to a forum where a guy did this to a forklift. It's pretty explanatory on how to do the conversion, and even has the same pic as I used showing the wiring diagram.

I really prefer this idea over my modified GM HEI distributor, as it can all look stock if you keep the wires hidden and hide the module. The only downside of this for '55 and back as the car needs to be 12v Negative ground. The good thing is, the points will last forever, or at least as long as the Bakelite piece on the points last. Another nice thing is, even as that piece wears down, it will still work and you won't need to re-adjust the points. As long as the points are opening and closing, it doesn't matter what the point gap is.

Found it at AAP for $52 new.:
shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... Id=partTypeList&searchTerm=ignition+module

If this works i nominate Eric for the Packard Hall of Fame.

No reason to nominate me, as I didn't discover it. I just prefer this over my conversion as it's a lot cheaper and easier to convert back to points if desired. This is what I plan on doing to both the '48 and the Speedster. I DO recommend using a higher output coil to realize the full advantages of the HEI ignition.

What coil do u recommend????

BTW, here is a list of other FOrds it fits:
oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPI0/CBE40 ... partType=02801&parentPartType=C0334


Then click on "compatibility".

When i go to junk yard, WHERE on the car is the module usualy located????

The link doesn't work, it wants you to enter the vehicle to start a new search. As for the coil, I'd go with something like this: Mallory Coil

58,000 volts, can you say "Come on baby light my fire..."

Remember that you can now run a wider plug gap than original as well. .035 is a good place to start, as .028-.030 is where most of the straight eights were set at stock.