Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Does anyone have any hints on how to remove the rear bearing cap for a 1929 640 Custom Eight engine without damaging it? It is such a close fit in the crankcase that it won't budge.

Thanks,

Jim Wayman
640 Phaeton

Have you tried tapping on it from front to back with a rubber or plastic headed mallet? A lot of the time when I can't get something off like a main cap that I don't want damaged I use a hard plastic mallet and it'll knock it loose rather quickly. If the engine's a little corroded in that area I'd apply some PB Blaster to it as well. Just watch your swings and don't hit too hard and it'll come loose.

On my 7th series standard eight we gently jacked the crank up (evenly, on both ends) and used a rubber mallet to get a little space. Then much wiggling.

Had already tried your suggestion without success.

Thanks,

Jim Wayman

Had already tried to jack the crank, thus pushing up the bearing and cap. No success.

Thanks,

Jim Wayman

With all the main bearing caps in place and loosened a very small but equal amount, put #1 and #8 pistons at about TDC and apply some compressed air to the two cylinders. Leave them pressurized for a time if need be.

Good suggestion. I have already taken the block off of the crankcase. If I can't find another solution, I may have to reassemble.

Thanks,

Jim Wayman

Is there any rust evident??????

get 2wo round bars about the same size as the bolt holes in the cap and 16 inches long or thereabouts. Insert a rod in each hole. Pry backwards and forwards and from side-to-side. Maybe have an accomplace tap on the SIDES of the cap using a little hammer english on a down stroke as he raps.

Thanks for the hint. Finally got the cap off with a combination of methods. Put a space heater next to to bellhousing end for several hours to warm up the crankcase in that area. Then put a sling on the crank flange and raised up the rear end of the crankcase upside down to put pressure on the cap. Then put a small engineer's jack between the top of the bellhousing and the crank flange and screwed it as far as possible. Alternately tapping downward on the crankcase flange at each side of the bearing cap and tightening up on the jack and it cam out after about two hours of slow work. Although I had been told that the bearings were good, it is a good thing I removed the crank. Obviously never been apart. Some scoring of the crank and burning of bearings. Anyone know of a good babbit shop in the Denver area?

Thanks to all,

Jim Wayman
640 Phaeton

Jim, do you still own the 7-40 coupe? JP