Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

at the risk of pedantically beating this to death:

vulcanizing cross-links the rubber - it has nothing to do with attaching it to the metal, which is a separate thing(although they can be done in the same process, I believe).

My own experience is with the 1941 running boards - as you see on the photos in this string, they follow the contours of the metal. On some older boards, the mat profile creates the pattern on a flat metal substrate. Spray-up womt work on these.

The Steele mats were two extruded EPDM rubber profiles, and 2 outer corner caps. They don't make them anymore (not sure why). You stuck them to the boards and there are seams.

The spray PU is a newer method and gives a seamless appearance, although typically a little shinier than original. It does cross-link, but not technically by vulcanization. Again see the photos for some nice jobs.

I think this comes down to understanding the original pattern and how it was achieved.

Thanks! I knew vulcanizing was the incorrect term but I was hoping to get away with it and avoid a long discussion, which you've done very nicely indeed.

I have the same problem with my '39 120 - the exterior is completely restored with the exception of the running boards so that is next on my list. I understand Steele or someone was reproducing these but discontinued due to quality control problems - or maybe low demand?

Gearhead, if you contact Steele I would also be interested. In fact, I wonder how many on this site would be interested in these for the '38-'39 juniors? Any other takers? I wonder how many people would be enough to justify a run?

I have heard, though, that the rhino liner is a pretty good solution and will be researching that here also, I think the key is to get the "finest" grade, or one with as little texture as possible.

MacPackard,

Not sure if I have contacted Steele but Kantor (we all know them) said that they have the Super 8s for 1938 (no Eights) but I am not sure they are just an outlet for Steele or have their own factory for rubber. Anyways, the Super8 mats are different than the Eights as per Kantor's note. They claim the Super8s are rectangles and not stripes. I am not exactly sure also if they will have to be altered, and how much, to fit the car and how closely they look to mine assuming mine are original.

Are the 1939s the same as the 1938s? Mine have 5 full long rectangular stripes with 7 partial stripes getting progressively smaller as the board gets wider. The stripes are solid rubber bump-like shapes. It also has a curved back up to the door frame bottom. Of course a curved front lip to the molding. Based on the fact that I know almost the complete history of this car I am assuming these are the original boards. I will be very interested in what Steele has to say regarding the replacements.

Someone mentioned that the aftermarket mats are really extrusions and butted with end caps. I have a 1940 Chevy that has new OEM styled mats and they are one piece units. I have also seen that on Packards too. Are the Steele units one piece? Any ideas on that?

At this point I am not yet looking to the Rhino solution but will be interested in the results. I am still looking for the needle in the haystack...

Thanks for the info.

FPTGearhead for including your '38 Eight 4 Door Touring Sedan in the Packard Owner's Registry.

Hi FPTGearhead, yes the '39s are identical - confirmed by a quick trip to the garage!

A friend is checking into the Rhino liner for me and if reasonable, I will try it and post the results. I do not believe Kanter makes their own, I think they carry Steele's stuff.

Thanks for the info. Any ideas on rejuvenation of the old rubber as a temporary fix? I have used the common dashboard treatments with decent results on other rubber surfaces ie. Floormats.. Any tricks for old rubber boards? Thanks to all!

I'd guess that, depending on the condition of the running board rubber, attempts at "rejuvenation" may not be very successful. Back when I barely had two nickels to rub together we used to coat them with several coats of DuPont's blackwall tire paint, that stuff that the used car dealers used to try to make a sow's ear look like a silk purse. I suppose the stuff is still available, and it might well temporaily improve the appearance. But it has no restorative powers, just a top coat.

If some chunks are missing, you might try filling the spaces with black RTV silicone rubber, though the blackwall tire dressing isn't going to want to adhere to those places. Truck bedliner goop is perhaps a better choice for little patches here and there.

some initial loss of plasticizing oil might be reversible, but the oxidation you have by now is not.

Try spraying the hell out of it with PB Blaster and let it soak. I have brought petrified rubber back from the dead with it. Rubber hardens from the lose of the oils in it. I guess the PB penetrates are replaces some of those lost oils with itself. Depending on how hard it is, it may take a couple rounds and soaking to get it presentable.

I never tried a piece as big a running boards. Usually just smaller pieces that I could put in a zip lock bag and let soak for a couple of days.