Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Ross and sawman...thanks for the input. Ross, I'm glad you gave me the instructions on loosening the brake. I could totally see me tightening it and not realize it! I won't try the PB Blaster. Sawman, I'll try your tip hitting the tire and see if that helps.

This is why I love this website! People take the time to help others, even if they are not as knowledgable on cars and are patient with novice questions.

My not so understanding wife is all over me about getting rid of this car. Most people would have considered it a parts car, but I want to bring it back to life. She might not understand, but I know you guys do.

If you decide to try and skid it, rather than risk your front wheel drive car, why not position it as an anchor and borrow or rent a come-along? I think you have a reasonable chance with that approach, I've skidded cars on plywood on grass years back. Or, got a friend with a Jeep or equivalent?

Could you call a local wrecker to winch the car out? Those guys usually know how to retrieve cars from all sorts of ugly situations. It'd cost a few bucks but would save your back, your house, your marriage and maybe even the car, too!

If you're committed to jacking the car up, I would suggest the following method:

1) Grab a shovel and dig a shallow trench (the trench creates clearance under the car) under the spot on the frame where you want to lift with a floor jack;
2) Stack a few solid concrete blocks (1" thick or more) in the trench to create a "foundation" for the jack. You'll need at least two layers of blocks stacked in alternating directions. (Using plywood under the jack will not support the weight of the car and the jack...you'll just punch a hole in the plywood.)
3) Put your jack on the blocks in the trench and lift her up. Then place your plywood under the car to slide her out.

I used this method to lift a large shed up off the ground and slide it a few feet to another spot in the yard. It's a hernia in the making to be sure, but it worked.

Also, I wouldn't attempt to pull (or push) a stuck car with a front drive vehicle. Maybe I'm old fashioned, but FWD cars have too many (expensive) parts to break to be of much use for pulling or pushing.

Good luck!

Hi, I'm not trying to be a wise guy but I suggest you get a car your wife likes--Your life will be so much happier. I had a 51 like yours, only 27k miles and a nice car--The ultramatic is not a powerhouse, if you are stuck, it may be that. Try to check the fluid, it is a pain, even on a good suface, but if it is low you won't have the power you need. Good luck!

Well, I was hoping to give it another try, but my wife's and my daily drivers required attention. Then we got a delivery of wood for a project and the only place to put it was in front of the car! After the project though I should have some more scrap to experiment with.

Thanks again to everyone for their input. I'll keep you posted.

I had some rare time to take a look at the car today. Front tires are rotted so bad, they only hold air for 3 minutes. I dug a little under the drivers side rear frame rail and got a floor jack under it. Raised the car some and got another floor jack under the differential. I was able to raise the car some more, but only enough to get the drivers rear tire off the ground slightly. Finally got the car started again and tried to get it in gear but no luck. After playing with the gear selector, reverse worked and the rear tire moved while the car idled (fast idle too). I used to be able to hear the car get into H by hearing the idle lower, but this time, no luck. I played around with the selector and left it in H and L but it wouldn't engage. I hope I didn't ruin anything when I was revving it up trying to get it to move. I'm happy I got reverse once at least. I also noticed some empty trans fluid bottles in the car. It says it is Dexron III/Mercon. Good for applications requiring Dexron III, II, Dexron and Mercon. Is this the right fluid and if not, would it keep the car from going in gear?

The merits of the various Dexrons, Mercons and other trans fluids have been widely discussed before. Some have had fine results with them, others prefer to use Type F or Type FA which are closer to the original Type A. Still others have a liking for B&M Trickshift. But choice of fluid type would not make the difference between the transmission engaging or not. You might consider checking the fluid level if you can get access to the dipstick. Assuming it's a "leaker", you might want to consider just adding a couple of quarts to see if you can get it to move.

Thanks Owen...I topped it off before with no effect, but it was also going in gear at that time. I don't think I have any leaks because it was supposably rebuilt, but that was a while ago and it has been sitting a long time. I wanted to at least eliminate the fluid as a possible cause.

I have a lead on a hand winch that I'm going to try to use to get her back on some pavement and then check the dip stick. I know the linkage to the shift selector is very sloppy because I had to hunt for reverse. I wasn't sure if there was anything else I could check before trying to move her manually. At least the rear wheel spun! I'm calling that progress...

It is possible to move a car sideways using a floor jack. One end at a time.

Put the jack in from the side and lift the rear off the ground. Push the car sideways rolling on the jack wheels.

One person can move a car on a cement floor. Outdoors, you need to put a sheet of plywood under the car. Then 2 people can push it, or tow SLOWLY with a car.

By this means you can move a car sideways a few feet at a time, switching from front to rear as necessary.

Or, as someone pointed out, call a tow truck and have them move it for you.