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I have a clear glass, nylon mesh fuel filter in front of my carburetor. However, I also have a big cartridge-loaded diesel fuel filter between that and the carburetor. The diesel filter is a 2 micron screw-on filter cartridge that looks like a modern oil filter.

I really thought I had my bases covered on fuel cleanliness. I do get some rust from my tank, but my idea was to catch the coarse stuff in the glass filter, and remove everything else in the cartridge filter.

I guess I was wrong. I just picked up my rebuilt carburetor this morning, and I was told that it had been full of rust.

I told the guy there about my filter arrangement. He asked, is that 2-micron filter ceramic or paper? I replied that it was probably paper. He said that the sharp rust particles will cut their way right through paper filters.

OK, I didn't know that.

I can't afford to drop the tank (again) and get it treated. Is there any kind of filter than anyone has had good experience with that will protect my carburetor?

Jay

I'd recommend taking a broader view of the problem. The rusting in the tank will do nothing but get worse and worse, and ultimately if not taken care of, the tank may become unrepairable. I'd save up until I could afford to get the tank fixed; in the interim just use the cheapest throw-away in line filters, you'll find the interval between having to change them will get shorter and shorter as the tank further degrades. Keep a couple or more in the glove box if you go far from home.

Would you opt for ceramic, paper, or do you think it makes a difference?

I agree that fixing the tank is the right thing to do, and the only longterm solution. I won't be able to do the tank this season.

Assuming rust. Is there some way to drop in or otherwise affix a magnet to the inside of the diesel filter bowl????

Jay,

You could drop the tank, do a few rounds of diluted muriactic acid to clean you the varnish and crud, and follow that us with some phosphoric acid to help neutralize the existing rust. Flush it with water, and then a round of acetone to neutralize the acids. Then just put an compressed air line or shop vac on it for a couple of hours to dry out any remaining moisture.

That is basically what I did to mine and it only cost about $60, and a days worth of labor. If the scale and rust is really bad you could put a heavy chain in the tank and give it a good shake and tumble before the acid treatments. Check my blog for more info on this.

Just make sure to use some long rubber gloves.

Hi Jay,
In all of my fuel tanks, I have taken out the pick up tube and soldered a brass mesh filter to it. I make up the filter from brass mesh by rolling around 1 inch diameter tube and cutting to about 2 inches long. I then solder along the join. Then cut 2x 1 inch diameter pieces of mesh. Fit 1 to one end and solder around the edges. On the other 1 inch disc, cut 3 small slots across the centre so you can pull up to create a hole the diameter of the fuel pickup tube. Then fit this piece to the other end of the mesh filter and solder around the edge. You now have a brass mesh filter tube approx' 1 inch in diameter and approx' 2 inches long. These measurements are not critical but this size gives a good surface area for the fuel to get through but no crap. Next thoroughly clean the pick up tube back to shiny metal. Cut the bottom of the pickup tube to 45 degree angle and then slide in through the opening in the top of the mesh filter. The centre pieces that you pulled up now give you something to solder to the pick up tube. I made sure the pick up tube was right to the bottom of the filter - the 45 degree angle ensures fuel can always get into the pickup tube. This brass mesh filter on the bottom of the pick up tube stops rust and flakes getting into the fuel line. As mentioned by others, you will need to properly clean out the tank at some time soon, but you can do this little job in an hour or two. It will be added piece of mind even after the tank is cleaned.
Cheers NZ Mal