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Dear All,

In advertising for WTB North East coil, I got a message from West Peterson that made me check things a bit closer. It turns out that my 733 has the incorrect ignition coil. It should be under the dash with the key an integral component, but instead I have a key switch in the dash and a coil on my firewall in the engine compartment. I have attached a photo showing the coil on the firewall.

My first questions is there anything, besides lack of authenticity, with this set up? The coil is a Declo Remy 380 6V coil, probably from a 41 or so Chevy. If I am having some engine problems, and am thinking about trying a replacement coil, can I just get a DR 380, at least temporarily. Finding the correct/original coil/switch is going to be a pain.

The distributor is correct and original (North East 10868).

Thanks,

Tom

p.s. I still want the right North East coil, if anyone has one...

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Tom
I can't answer the second part of your question, as to whether that's causing your problems, but it looks like your coil is very close to if not sitting on top of an incorrectly routed heater hose. Is it possible it's getting too hot? Also, your plug wires/coil wire look very questionable (condition) as well.

I can show you what the coil looks like... I've seen reproductions of these on eBay every once in a while, but I do not know anything about their quality or correctness.

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West,

Agree with the incorrectly, or poorly routed heater hoses, but with the coil behind the dash it wouldn't matter! Also, plug wires, distributor to coil wire, etc. are OLD, and will be replaced as soon as replacements reach me from Rhode Island Wire.

So, I wait until then before I do much more diagnosing and futzing!

Boy, sure is nice not being in MN right now!

Tom

Tom,

I have the same set up on my car (although I have a stock coil). The first thing I would do is get those spark plug wires out of that loom (the metal tube) and away from everything that they can short to; then run it. When they are in that loom, those old wires will short, cross fire and generally create problems. If if runs better like that, then your new wires should fix the problem and you can put them back in the loom where they belong.

As an illustration, my car came with a really nice looking set of repro cloth wires when I bought it (they were in a box) and a set of the black rubber covered wires on the engine. The owner told me he couldn't get it to run right with the repro wires because they kept shorting inside the loom.

Hope this helps,

Scott

There is one of those coils on Ebay right now - kinda spendy at $250 #320217229702

Scott, thanks for the idea. I will check that.

I saw the coil on ebay. It is a repro, and I haven't found anyone with any experience using one. Plus, it doesn't look quite like the original that West has in his car, so I am not sure if it will fit.

I also have an opportunity to buy an original, but non-functioning, coil that could be rebuilt (or just used as a switch until I feel the urge to get it rebuilt).

For now, I have ordered a new standard coil, condenser, and engine wire harness. I am cleaning up the distributor, filing points, etc. I am also going to look into my generator/cut-out and other electrical system bits. After all gets put back together, engine timed, etc. I will let folks know how things are working.


Cheers,

Tom

Tom
You will find it amazing how many problems seem to disappear when you completely replace your wiring. Don't forget to replace your battery cables. I strongly suggest a 00-gauge cable for your ground, even though it probably didn't come with it new.

Tom,

As for your points, I think we have the same distributor; a Northeast 10896. I wouldn't even mess around with old points, there are two sets in that distributor and they are about $300 to replace if you can find them, The hard surface of those points is so thin that after they have been filed once you will need to mess with them constantly.

I bought a points conversion from these guys.

packardsintnw.com/regional_projects.htm

It was great, it only set me back $100, its very nicely made and easy to install. It uses 1960's Chrysler points that are easy to find and cheap. While you are at it, I would look into their ignition timing pointer. It bolts onto the driver's side of the timing chain cover and allows you to time the car with a gun! Much easier than the "pull the starter/use a light bulb technique." If you go to a show, it comes off in less than five minutes. And no, I don't work for them!

Scott

Scott,

Thanks tons for the info. The points I have currently are OK, so I won't do the conversion immediately. I am definitely going to check out their kit. It sounds like it has worked quite well for you. I have heard rumors that some of the available conversion kits lead to rougher running, so I was steering away from them.

I also like the idea of setting things up for using a timing light. Peter Toet has a description in a thread of how he did it, and I will probably go with that approach, though I will look into the kit.

West,

I appreciate your help. I like the idea of using a larger battery cable, particularly given the distance between the battery and the starter. With the current cable voltage drop is significant.

I am definitely looking forward to getting my wiring house in order. Even if things don't improve in the running department, at least I will have eliminated with certainty one potential area for huge problems.

Cheers,

Tom

Tom,

It isn't much of a kit, the guys at Packard Seattle have found a Chevy timing reference plate (the zig zaggy type) with the same harmonic balancer diameter so it lends itself easily to our Packards. They just cut off the Chevy mounting point and welded on a base that fits the timing cover on our cars. You still have to pull the starter and index it (put a dimple in the balancer) manually the first time. Let me know if you want a picture of my installation.

Peter Toet, Dave (Owen Dyneto) and some others here have probably forgotten more about these cars than I know, so I would take their advice over mine 10 out of 10 times.

Scott